Who came up with a recipe for herring under a fur coat. Herring under a fur coat: the history of creation and recipe

W.U.B.A.: the history and recipe of the famous salad

On the eve of the New Year 2016, housewives all over the country are thinking about what will be original and author's in their kitchen. But among the unusual delicacies, a few salads will be well known to every guest in any Russian home. Among these "favorites" is the famous appetizer herring under a fur coat. WHO INVENTED HERRING UNDER A FUR COAT?

It is believed that the author of this salad was the merchant Anastas Bogomilov. At the beginning of the 20th century, he was the owner of a network of Moscow canteens and taverns. In difficult revolutionary times, many guests of his establishments allowed themselves to drink too much, started loud disputes about the fate of their homeland and behaved aggressively. Heated discussions and fights did not please the owner of the taverns: because of them, he regularly received bills for broken dishes and damaged furniture.

Then Bogomilov decided to come up with a salad that would allow guests not to get drunk for a longer time and would become a symbol of national unification.

WHEN DID THIS SALAD FIRST APPEAR?

The famous herring under a fur coat was first served on New Year's Eve 1919.

All about the decoration of the festive New Year's table

HOW DID YOU CHOOSE THE INGREDIENTS?

Interestingly, the ingredients of the salad were not chosen by chance. The main component was herring - the food of the proletarians. The merchant supplemented it with onions, boiled potatoes, carrots, and on top added a layer of grated beets, which was supposed to resemble a red proletarian banner. In order not to forget about the enemies of the Soviets, the salad was dressed with French mayonnaise sauce.

This is how everyone's favorite herring under a fur coat appeared.

WHAT DOES THE NAME OF THE SALAD MEAN?

According to an urban legend, the merchant himself came up with the appetizer's name: "Chauvinism and Decadence - Boycott and Anathema", or simply "SH.U.B.A." Over time, the name of the author of the popular salad recipe was forgotten, and the dish began to be called herring under a fur coat.

Herring under a fur coat is a legendary New Year's dish with political overtones. It appeared in the critical year of 1918 and reconciled the proletariat with the peasantry. By the way, few people know that "fur coat" is an abbreviation. At least according to popular legend.

According to legend, this "Venus in furs" was born in 1918. In this, to put it mildly, not very calm time, the people in every possible way sought out the historical truth. Since the time of Dostoevsky, a favorite place for truth-seekers has been a tavern - it was there that the most heated debates were started: with breaking dishes, accusations of counter-revolution and singing the Internationale on the tables. One of the Moscow merchants, the owner of a network of popular eateries, Anastas Bogomilov, did not like such an “unhealthy” atmosphere at all, and he was looking for a way to avoid a civil war, at least in his own establishments.

One of his cooks, Aristarkh Prokoptsev, came to the aid of Anastas, who offered to pave the way to the hearts of the rebels through the stomach. He came up with a "dish of the world", each ingredient of which was symbolic: herring meant the proletariat, as it was one of his favorite foods; potatoes, carrots and onions - as if they had come out of the earth - personified the peasantry; and beets are the red flag of the revolution. The salad was generously flavored with French mayonnaise sauce - either as a sign of respect for the creators of the Great French bourgeois revolution, or, on the contrary, as a reminder of the external enemy of the Bolsheviks - the Entente, which included France. The name of the dish was appropriate: "Chauvinism and Decadence - Boycott and Anathema", and in abbreviated form - "SH.U.B.A.". This salad was unusually liked by the visitors: they actively ate it, and therefore they got less drunk and, accordingly, fought less. And the “fur coat” was presented just on New Year's Eve, 1919.

It is not known how true this legend is, but its compilers were certainly talented people: not only did they “award” the herring under a fur coat with a hidden meaning, they also found an excuse for its New Year's status.

Playing hopscotch

The ingredients of a traditional herring under a fur coat are known to everyone: herring, potatoes, carrots, onions, apples, beets, mayonnaise. Vegetables (except onions) should be boiled, but the apple must be raw. It is better to take a large onion - it is sweeter. And mayonnaise - with a high percentage of fat or homemade.

Recipe. Herring under a fur coat

Ingredients: 300 g herring fillet, 300 g beets, 300 g carrots, 300 g potatoes, 300 g apples, 150 g onions, mayonnaise.

Cooking. Boil potatoes, carrots and beets in their skins until tender. Cool, peel and grate on a fine grater into different plates. Finely chop the onion. Cut the herring fillet into small pieces. Peel the apple, grate on a medium grater. Lay out all the ingredients in layers on the bottom of a flat salad bowl (grease the layers with mayonnaise): potatoes, herring, onions, carrots, apples, beets.

Despite open access to the classic recipe, everyone prepares this salad in their own way: someone ignores the onion, someone replaces the apple with pickled cucumber, and someone adds cheese to everything else. And this is not the limit! Modernity is not famous for its reverent attitude to the classics, and it doesn’t matter whether it is Pushkin or just a herring under a fur coat. There are innovators who dare to make major changes to the legendary recipe. Many chefs politely offer herring to “move over” and give way to more noble and refined fish (salmon, salmon) or seafood (shrimp, crabs, squid). But the real revolution is arranged by the housewives themselves: they confidently invade the recipe, and as a result, such salads appear on the tables as “Herring under a fur coat without herring”, “Herring under a fur coat with eggs”, “Herring in a new fur coat”, “Herring in a coat ”,“ Herring under a light fur coat ”,“ Herring in a sheepskin coat ”…

There is even a vegetarian (even vegan) version of the salad - "Sea under a fur coat." Herring is replaced with seaweed or seaweed, such as wakame. According to strict vegetarians, the real fishy taste of these algae perfectly complements the taste of the herring itself. For "density" some add pickled mushrooms to seaweed. And eggs, which are not and cannot be in the classic “fur coat”, but which most often appear in the “average coat”, are replaced by vegans with avocados. Mayonnaise is used vegetable, without eggs. On one of the popular vegetarian forums, a visitor, having learned about the existence of the “Sea under a Fur Coat”, left a touching comment: “Surprisingly, in five years of strict vegetarianism, I did not suffer from meat at all. The only thing I really, to tears, wanted was herrings under a fur coat ... Now I know how to console myself.

Herring under a Fur Coat

The history of salad "Herring under a fur coat"

"Herring under a fur coat" is an integral part of the New Year's or festive feast. Salad invariably finds itself in the center of the table, side by side with cold cuts and alcoholic beverages. The age-old popularity of the nutritious dish is second only to Olivier, the king of snacks. A fish wrapped in a warm vegetable coat can look completely unusual. Some hide it under layers, forming a neat pile, others build patterned marine life, and truly creative people dress up a herring in an exquisite fur coat, complemented by sleeves and boots. But few of them know the history of the famous salad, which has become a classic.

At the beginning of the last century, a legend was born that opened the veil of secrecy on the origin of the "Herring under a fur coat." It can be considered romantic and unlikely, but it has a place. It all started in an ordinary tavern owned by a wealthy merchant Anastas Bogomilov. It was a turbulent year in 1918. The people tried to find the historical truth and the root of all problems, sitting comfortably at the oak tables of nearby taverns. Hot-blooded, clashing views, and a slightly clouded mind inevitably led to disputes. Such comradely "outbursts" were accompanied by the singing of the "Internationale", the collapse of the interior, the breaking of dishes and accusing each other of counter-revolution.

Such debauchery brought a lot of losses and upset the merchant Bogomilov. But among his employees was a talented chef Aristakh Prokoptsev, who managed to find a way out of an unpleasant situation and increase profits. The path to the disappearance of the conflict lay through the stomach of the rebels. He created a "dish of the world" in which a secret meaning was laid. The proletariat adored herring dishes, so fish became its analogy. The peasantry, connected with the land, had the appearance of vegetables: potatoes and onions. The beet has become a symbol of the revolution - a red banner. The salad also reflected the enemies of Soviet power. They were presented with French mayonnaise.

Initially, the salad was called "SH.U.B.A." (To Chauvinism and Decadence - Boycott and Anathema). Later, the names of the creators were forgotten, the complex name evolved into a simpler one, accessible to perception and familiar to modern generations. Along with the name, the changes also affected the recipe itself. Soviet citizens began to add chicken eggs and carrots to the dish.

For the first time "S.U.B.A." was presented to the visitors of the tavern on the night of the coming 1919. The innovation created a sensation. The people, visiting the tavern, began to actively order a new nutritious salad, which is an excellent snack. As a result, the guests got less drunk and behaved more calmly. The number of fights was noticeably reduced, and the merchant's mood improved.

Touching on the history of the creation of "Herring under a fur coat", it is worth noting a few interesting facts related to the salad:

1. The film "The Irony of Fate, or Enjoy Your Bath!", which has become an unshakable symbol of the New Year and gives a festive mood, served as the popularity of the dish. In one of the episodes, Ippolit throws the phrase: “What a muck this is your jellied fish!”. As a result, it leads to a change in priorities, bringing herring salad into the lead.

2. After several generational changes after the appearance, "Herring under a fur coat" once again inscribes itself in history. There is such a holiday - the day of herring, which gave Kaliningrad chefs the idea of ​​​​creating a dish of a grandiose scale. Unthinkable food expenses and sleepless nights of cooks resulted in 488 kg of delicious treats. The guests ate everything in a few hours.

Let now few people think about the origin of "Herring under a fur coat", gobbling it up every year, but the salad continues to imperceptibly fulfill its mission - to smooth out table conflicts. How about a different story? Our ancestors did not defend their beliefs so zealously, or if there was something edible on the menu, then the classic four of the New Year's table would look different - Olivier, champagne, tangerines and aspic fish.

Today, store shelves are bursting with overseas vegetables, dozens of fish species and many sauces. But we still do not change the taste of childhood and every New Year we prepare the simplest “fur coat”.

However, if you know some tricks, which we will discuss below, the usual salad will turn out to be much more interesting and tastier.

Who came up with this popularly loved recipe? There are many funny theories and tales about the origin of herring under a fur coat. According to one of them, the Moscow merchant Anastas Bogomilov was the author of the legendary dish.

In the difficult post-revolutionary times, workers, peasants, soldiers and sailors often held political discussions in his drinking establishments, ending in scuffles, breaking dishes and singing the Internationale on the tables.

Anastas came up with a “dish of the world”, which, he believed, could calm down and reconcile different classes at the table. Each ingredient of the salad was symbolic: affordable herring meant the proletariat, potatoes and onions that came out of the earth - the peasantry, and beets - the red banner of the revolution.

Presented on the eve of 1919, the salad received a name corresponding to the era: “Boycott and anathema to chauvinism and decline”, and abbreviated as “Sh. W.B.A. The hearty salad was very much liked by the visitors: they actively ate them, got less drunk and, to the delight of the author, less often broke furniture in his establishments.

Most likely, this story is just an amusing fiction, which, however, cannot be denied ingenuity. In fact, the recipe for herring under a fur coat appeared in Soviet culinary literature only at the end of the sixties of the last century. Until now, nothing like this has ever existed.

There is another version, according to which the famous dish became a creative rethinking of Norwegian salads with herring. Knowing that "a true Norwegian eats herring twenty-one times a week," this is not so hard to believe.

"Herring under a fur coat" - a multi-layered salad. Its main ingredients are slightly salted herring, boiled beets, boiled carrots, boiled potatoes, onions and mayonnaise. Boiled eggs are often used for decoration.

INGREDIENTS

• 300 g herring fillet
• 300 g beets
• 300 g potatoes
• 300 g carrots
• 150 g onion
• mayonnaise to taste
• salt, pepper and herbs to taste

COOKING

1. In the evening, boil potatoes, carrots and beets separately without salt.

2. Let cool at room temperature and put in the refrigerator. Beets separately, carrots and potatoes can be stored together.

3. Cut the herring, put it in a closed glass dish and put it in the refrigerator.

4. On the second day, peel the vegetables and rub them on a fine grater into different plates.

5. Finely chop the onion. Cut the herring fillet into small pieces.

6. Salt each ingredient to taste, pepper with freshly ground pepper, season with mayonnaise and mix.

7. Lay out all the ingredients in layers on the bottom of a flat salad bowl. The classic sequence is: herring, onions, potatoes, carrots, beets. If desired, you can break the order of the layers, for example, put grated potatoes down, and then herring, onions, carrots and beets.

8. Before serving, the dish must be infused for at least 3 hours.

9. Delicious herring under a fur coat is ready. Enjoy your meal!

Salad "Herring under a fur coat" is not a gastronomic perversion (although some foreigners think so), not a figment of the imagination of our harsh hostesses, who sometimes create salads that are surprising in their composition. It does not have such a detective story filled with secrets and mysteries, like Olivier or other famous dishes. "Herring under a fur coat" - an elegant salad in its simplicity, like the people for whom it was created, this is a "Dish of the World", aimed at class unification and calming the visitors of the tavern, agitated by the revolutionary events in the country. We know the name of the creator, we know the specific composition of the salad, but it is a reflection of the spirit of that time. And this is a 100% New Year's dish, because it was presented on New Year's Eve 1919.

No intrigue, you say. But this is a ready-made funny story for a family and friendly feast to set a playful tone for the conversation and keep the fun going! And it's interesting to learn the usual dishes from a new side.

By the way, do you know that a fur coat for herring is an abbreviation? More in my small but funny article :)

(Picture Maria Skorodumova)

So, 1918 in Russia. In the country, do not understand what is happening, in the minds of people it is not clear what is happening. At that time, as now, peasants and young men gathered in taverns, and if the male sex climbs into a fight for a harmless reason, then imagine what happened in a turbulent revolutionary time, and even with the disappearance of products and the rise in price of the remaining ones.

And who in the first place bears the losses in such cases? That's right, restaurant owners. Understandable, right?

So Anastas Bogomilov, a Moscow merchant and owner of several taverns, suffered from such fermentation in the minds, which means he suffered losses. And what if food becomes more expensive, but the men did not drink less? Moreover, with a small amount of snacks get drunk faster than usual? That's right, come up with a cheap but satisfying snack, which was done by the cook of one of the taverns of the aforementioned merchant Aristarkh Prokoptsev.

They say that at that time herring was one of the cheapest products, so the cook made a salad from it, potatoes, onions and beets, flavoring it all with mayonnaise, which Russian citizens love immensely to this day. In our time, there is a legend about the political component of the salad, which says that this salad is a "dish of the world" and was created to combine the powerful classes on which the revolution relied: herring as a symbol of the proletariat, onions and potatoes - as representatives of the peasantry, and beetroot, with its red color, personified the revolution itself, but mayonnaise is assigned either the role of a devoured enemy, or they pay tribute to the revolutionary past of France. So we got a salad-slogan, a salad-manifesto, a salad-symbol. So it was or not, no longer know.

Do you think "Herring under a fur coat" is the original name of the salad? No matter how. The first name of the salad was consonant with the spirit of that time and the passion of our people at the beginning of the century for the abbreviations - S.U.B.A., stands for "Chauvinism and Decline - Boycott and Anathema!". But, as usual, such a strange name was simplified and turned into "Herring under a fur coat."

This salad was invented in 1918, but was presented just on the eve of 1919. He was so fond of the visitors of the tavern that despite the cheap products that make up the salad, he remained festive. Moreover, it has become one of the main symbols of the Russian New Year.

The revolution has subsided, the Soviet Union has sunk into oblivion, the twenty-first century has come, and the love of Russian people for "Herring under a fur coat" does not decrease. Now foreign wines, overseas products, fresh fruits from outlandish countries are increasingly appearing on our New Year's tables, but in many houses in the neighborhood with all these delights, the Herring under a fur coat salad takes pride of place.

I suggest you, my friends, listen to a short program (only 3 minutes) from Radio Zvezda about your favorite salad.

Well, according to the Russian tradition, there are a great many variations on the classic composition of "Herring under a fur coat" in our country.

Moreover, the salad "Herring under a fur coat" has become the hero of many anecdotes, photo jokes and illustrations.

Illustrator Nikolai Anikeev has a nice informative leaflet on the theme "Fur Coats".

The most common joke is the story about a cat and a herring.

Or one of the most popular photos on social media:

Sometimes the humor about a herring under a fur coat goes into a different plane and borders on art:

Our beloved women have an amazing sense of humor on the verge of a foul. This photo has not lost its popularity for several years now.

This article is not a serious text and is educational and entertaining.