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home  /  Snacks/ "if you want to eat "bear" - get yourself a passbook" or a rich history of favorite sweets. Examination of sweets: chocolate is in question Bears of sweets in a pine forest

"If you want to eat a "bear" - get yourself a passbook" or a rich history of your favorite sweets. Examination of sweets: chocolate is in question Bears of sweets in a pine forest

Svetlana Yankina, Irina Gordon

A well-known trick: when they say "name the poet," almost everyone answers - Pushkin, and when the artist, they remember Shishkin. Today, on the day of the artist's 180th birthday, RIA Novosti correspondents went to the Museum of the History of Cocoa and Chocolate, where they told us how the cubs from the painting "Morning in a Pine Forest" from the collection of the Tretyakov Gallery migrated to the candy wrapper "Bears of the Clubfoot" and what did the Germans have to do with it, passbook and blossoming almonds.

It turned out that "Mishka Kosolapy" is the oldest candy that is produced at the factory. She, like her packaging, appeared in the century before last, and both the recipe and the candy wrapper have come down to us almost unchanged.

"In the 19th century, neither candy nor chocolate had a name. Chocolate was designated by numbers and packaged in foil. Buyers distinguished it either by numbers or by the color of the foil. sugar with the addition of cocoa butter. The filling is between two crispy wafers, covered with chocolate. It seems that everything is simple, "- said the director of the museum of cocoa and chocolate Lyudmila Numerova, leading to the showcase, where among the old jars and boxes of sweets a place of honor is occupied by a pile of "Mishek Kosolapykh".

According to Numerova, almonds ground with sugar were a very common delicacy in Germany, in the homeland of Ferdinand Theodor von Einem, the founder of the Einem factory, which became Red October after nationalization. Obviously, in order not to feel too sad, he decided to produce a delicacy in Russia that would remind him of home. Sadness was finally dispelled when it became clear that this candy was in great demand, thereby increasing the capital of the factory owner.

Shishkin's masterpiece ended up on a candy wrapper shortly after Pavel Tretyakov purchased the artist's painting "Morning in a Pine Forest" for his collection. A well-known fact - those same bears were painted not by Shishkin himself, but by the artist Savitsky, for which he received a quarter of the proceeds from the sale of the canvas. What is less known is that he later removed his signature from the painting, relinquishing its copyright. How Einem and Tretyakov then agreed is not known for certain, but the fact remains - the artist Emmanuil Andreev, who was ordered to wrap praline sweets, took the plot of "Morning in a Pine Forest" as a basis and placed it on a turquoise background. The director of the Museum of Cocoa and Chocolate does not rule out that the corresponding document is still preserved somewhere and does not lose hope of finding it.

"The name of the candy, apparently, was born along with the design of the candy wrapper. When this happened - it's hard to say exactly, but the historical label contains the coat of arms of the Russian Empire - the hallmark of the winner of the art and industrial fair in Nizhny Novgorod. This means that between the end of 1880- 1890s and mid-1890s, this candy was already on sale with this wrapper and name," the director of the museum shared.

One of the most valuable exhibits is a genuine candy wrapper "Mishka Kosolatogo" from the turn of the 19th-20th centuries, which had to be chased at auctions. In addition, the collection contains a wrapper from the early 1920s with a campaign inscription "If you want to eat "Mishka", get yourself a "Passbook". This was the only innovation of the Soviet era, the turquoise background and the bears remained in place. Here is the Mosselprom book "with a price list, after studying which it becomes clear that the advice given is sound: "Bear-toed Bears" were the most expensive sweets - four rubles per kilo.

The museum, whose second name is "BEAR", opened not so long ago, but there is no end to visitors. So it’s worth signing up for an excursion (so far the only way to the museum is allowed), put on a white robe with a cap and get ready to learn something new about the sweet life.

"Bear clubfoot" - sweets come from our childhood. But few people know how old recipe this delicacy. Now it is made at the Moscow confectionery factory "Red October". But clumsy bears got to the Soviet food industry from the former, bourgeois owner - Theodor Ferdinand von Einem. And what is the composition of sweets now? Has it been affected by the appearance of all sorts of emulsifiers and stabilizers, dyes and flavor enhancers? We will consider this in our article.

How Shishkin got involved in the appearance of sweets

The Einem factory appeared in Russia in the nineteenth century, namely in 1867. The manufacturer wrapped the chocolate in multi-colored foil and gave simple numbers. But as for sweets, he showed creative imagination, calling them sonorous names: "Golden Label", "Mignon", "Empire". These sweets were produced in boxes. Since the buyer loves everything new, Einem began to produce serial sweets. In the boxes, he put a collectible card with a beautiful picture on one side and encyclopedic information on the back. There were various series: "Gifts of the Sea and the Earth", "History of Hunting in Russia", etc. And then one day Einem released a new series of chocolates. It was called "Russian Artists and Their Paintings". The series consisted of twelve cards. And one of them was a reproduction of Shishkin's painting Morning in a Pine Forest. The series was published in 1896. So “Clumsy Bear” is a candy of a fairly respectable age. They are over a hundred and twenty years old.

old recipe for sweets

The entire series dedicated to paintings by Russian artists was the same. That is, different cards were invested in the boxes randomly. Was in this collection and "The Knight at the Crossroads" by Vasnetsov, and other famous works of domestic masters. But of all of them, only Shishkin entered the history of Russian confectionery with his Morning in a Pine Forest. Much later, the sweet was called "Clumsy Bear".

Sweets (the composition of the dessert was expensive) far from all citizens could afford these. Between the crispy thin wafers was placed praline - almonds ground into flour with sugar and cocoa butter. All the candy was covered chocolate icing. Praline is a favorite treat in Germany, and Einem was German. Since almonds are an expensive nut, sweets were not cheap either. Most of the population could afford them only on the bright holiday of Christmas. That is why the first candy wrappers were decorated with Bethlehem stars.

Finding a wrapper

Candies from the series "Russian Artists" were very fond of the public. However, buying a whole box was sometimes too expensive. Therefore, at the turn of the twentieth century, Einem launched the production of loose sweets. Each of them had to be packed in a separate wrapper. And from all twelve postcards, he chose the famous work of Shishkin. Of course, it was stylized under the wrapper. They removed the landscape, leaving only three cubs. At the same time, the name of the sweet appeared - “Bear clubfoot”. Candy acquired its modern design in 1913. Artist Manuil Andreev painted a bear and her three cubs against a turquoise background framed by spruce branches. The stars of Bethlehem also "migrated" to the candy wrapper. After the revolution, the Eimen factory was nationalized and renamed Red October. But sweets called "Clumsy Bear" continued to be produced according to the pre-revolutionary recipe and in the same wrappers. And they continued to enjoy the same popularity.

"Mishka clumsy" (sweets): "Red October" and Mayakovsky

As soon as the world began to trade with the Land of the Soviets, this type of sweets began to be exported. For the manufacture of confectionery only selected products were used. A kilogram of sweets "Mishka clumsy" therefore cost four rubles - money unheard of in those days. This product, due to the high price, has become a kind of equivalent of a comfortable life. The great Soviet poet Vladimir Mayakovsky came up with a well-aimed slogan: “If you want to eat Mishka, get yourself a passbook.” Despite the fact that this motto was intended to encourage citizens to put their savings in the bank, it was transferred to the label of an expensive candy. And it worked!

How does the modern "Clumsy Bear" differ from its predecessor

In that happy time, when mankind did not yet know emulsifiers and stabilizers, and in order to give taste to the product, the manufacturer put natural ingredients into it, sweets were made from wafers, grated almonds mixed with cocoa butter, and pure chocolate. The recipe did not change after the 1917 revolution. But now many years have passed, the age of chemistry has come into its own, and this most regrettably affected the composition of the sweets "Clumsy Bear". "Red October" now uses non-hydrogenated sunflower, along with canonical cocoa and sugar, for chocolate icing, Palm oil, as well as illipe and shi. Instead of the former “praline”, the label now says “filling”. What does it consist of? Grated almonds, sugar and cocoa butter are still there. But now vanilla flavoring, E-476 and soy lecithin. Chemistry penetrated even waffles. To prolong their freshness, emulsifier E322 and antioxidant E306 are added to the dough. Wafers have a vanilla flavor due to the “flavoring identical to natural”. And in the end, JSC "Red October" reluctantly admits: "The presence of peanuts, hazelnuts and dairy products is possible."

Loss of popularity

As you can see, everyone's favorite dessert in childhood is no longer the same. And the reduction in the cost of ingredients did not affect the price in any way. "Mishka clumsy" - sweets that are more than expensive - about eight hundred rubles per kilogram. Their popularity is preserved only by inertia. Many people buy the brand's confectionery products, remembering how delicious they used to be. On the wave of popularity, "Mishka" moved to other republics of the former Soviet Union. After all, the memory of the sweets of the Krasny Oktyabr confectionery factory is also alive there. In Ukraine, a product imported from Russia costs four hundred and eighty hryvnias per kilogram - about twenty dollars. Therefore, the Kharkiv biscuit factory has launched the production of sweets "Vedmedic klishonogy". Moreover, the sweet label remained identical to the Russian one. And the composition is very similar to the traditional one.

The benefits and harms of the product

The calorie content of the bear candy depends on its composition. And since the product with this name is produced not only by Krasny Oktyabr OJSC, but also by Rot Front, the recipe is changing. Some manufacturers abroad use honey in the filling, which, of course, increases beneficial features sweets. Let's explore nutritional value one hundred grams of this popular dessert among the people. Carbohydrates in it as much as 58.6 g, that is, more than half. Fats are 30 g. And proteins are only 6 g. As for energy value one hundred grams of the product, then it is 530 kcal. That's quite a lot. So, if you do not want to turn into a clumsy bear, you should limit yourself to eating this sweet. The calorie content of 1 bear candy is eighty units.

What consumers say about the product

How much nostalgia for the former charming taste sounds in the reviews! Modern candies can be eaten while they are fresh. Then the wafers, at least, do not come off the filling, and it does not crumble, while maintaining plasticity. Consumers are very disappointed with the icing. It doesn't melt in your mouth. Palm and other oils (which shouldn't be in chocolate) leave a sugary taste in your mouth. The opinion of consumers is unanimous: the manufacturer should adhere to the previous recipe.

Few people know that sweets "Mishka Kosolapy" (honey roasted) are not only the calling card of the industry, but also the pride of Tsarist Russia itself. After all, this sweet masterpiece was born in the workshops of the legendary Einem steam factory, which has been producing tea biscuits and chocolate since 1851. What was the "life" of sweets with literally a century of history?

"Mishka clumsy" - sweets with the taste of art

The wrapper of these sweets is decorated with a modified plot of the well-known painting "Morning in pine forest”, written by Ivan Shishkin in 1889. But it was with the light hand of Maniul Andreev, a major industrial artist, that this became the “face” of one of the most popular varieties of sweets in Russia and abroad.

When Julius Khoys, who then ran the business of the factory, was first brought for a tasting of a candy consisting of a thick layer of walnut praline, covered with it, he liked it so much that it was necessary to start mass production of this type immediately. And, according to the legend, it was a reproduction of the painting “Morning in a Pine Forest” that adorned the wall in Mr. Heuss's office. Hence the name, and later the design of new sweets.

Thus began the path of "Bear-toed Bear" from the factory confectionery shop to the tables of many generations of Russians. But not always this path was so “sweet”.

From "Einem" to "Red October"

"Mishka clumsy" - sweets with a hundred-year history. It all started at the royal factory "Einem", which in 1922, five years after the October Revolution, was renamed "Red October". Fortunately, despite the upheavals and changes in the state, the production of these sweets was not suspended. They, like many other well-known varieties of toffee and chocolate, were produced without interruption until when the assortment confectionery products was reduced to 2 items, and part of the production capacity was transferred to the production of concentrates of cereals and signal sticks.

Only in 1960, these sweets returned to store shelves and were able to please everyone again with their unique taste.

Not just grilling

There is no doubt that this is perhaps one of the most famous and favorite varieties of sweets, but the question arises: why is the “Bear-toed Bear” so popular? There are a lot of sweets today, even there are more than a dozen types of the same roasting, but this variety always remains the leader in sales. The secret of success is simple: it is soft roasting. Not those sweets that you can break your teeth about, trying to crack them, but a delicate and tasty honey-nut delicacy. They are very often put in children's New Year's gifts. Therefore, “Clumsy Bear” is a candy familiar to most people since childhood. And now - in more detail about the essence, that is, about the composition.

Sweets "Bear clubfoot": composition

From the time of its appearance to the present day, the recipe for making this beloved delicacy has undergone many changes. To date, the composition of sweets includes the following ingredients:

  • crushed peanuts;
  • chocolate glaze, which consists of grated cocoa, sugar, cocoa powder, cocoa butter equivalent, emulsifiers E476 and E322 and vanilla flavor identical to natural;
  • Sahara;
  • crushed hazelnut kernel;
  • molasses;
  • milk fat substitute;
  • fruit puree;
  • natural honey;
  • whole milk powder;
  • "Vanilla-creamy";
  • gelling agent E407;
  • emulsifier E322;
  • citric acid;
  • sodium citrate.

Price

This roasted variety is distinguished by a pleasant price-quality ratio, which always attracts the attention of consumers. But "Mishka clumsy" - sweets, the price of which may differ depending on the place of purchase. They are available in packs different kind and weight. The most popular form of packaging is sachets of 250 grams. The average price of such a package today is 100-110 rubles.

If you buy sweets by weight, then the price per kilogram, as a rule, starts from 180 rubles, but can also vary significantly depending on the place of purchase. It is cheaper to buy them in small retail chains or wholesale markets. In supermarkets, such sweets are 30-40 rubles more expensive. This is especially true of "Bear-toed" in branded bags of 250 grams.

Unfortunately, these candies are not available in gift boxes. Perhaps this is due to the fact that this variety is not associated with something rare, it is well known, popular and sold in almost every outlet.

Benefit and harm

"Clumsy Bear" - which is equal to 528 kcal / 100 g, which is a quarter of the average daily allowance. Therefore, it is better not to abuse these sweets, as well as many others. Although some packs indicate a different calorie content - 491 or 493 kcal / 100 g.

Can everyone eat sweets "Mishka clumsy"? The composition and content of useful organic substances is distributed as follows:

  • carbohydrates - 54.4 g;
  • fats - 31.3 g;
  • proteins - 8.7 g.

Due to the presence of sugar and a high percentage of carbohydrates, such sweets are contraindicated for people with diabetes, slow metabolism and a tendency to gain weight. They saturate well, but hunger after such a sweet snack will return very quickly.

Also, these sweets are not suitable for people with allergies to nuts and / or honey, chocolate and milk fat, children suffering from diathesis, and people with milk protein intolerance.

Candy Wars: Bear vs. Bear

On September 8, 2014, a repeated one took place between the Krasny Oktyabr and Pobeda factories. The cause of the dispute was the brand of sweets "Bears in the Forest", produced by the second. According to the plaintiff (Moscow Confectionery Factory Krasny Oktyabr OJSC), the name is too consonant with their brand Mishka Kosolapy. In addition, the wrappers of both varieties look very similar, which also became the reason for going to court.

The first attempt by Krasny Oktyabr to sue Pobeda for 1.2 million rubles in compensation was unsuccessful, as the judge rejected the claims due to the fact that, in his opinion, the defendant did not use an image on his goods that was so similar to the wrapper of the plaintiff's products. But the lawyers of "Red October" did not give up, later the results of the trial were annulled, and the application was sent for re-consideration to higher authorities.

World fame

Clumsy Bear - under this English name, it produces Red October candies on the world market. "Clumsy Bear" is loved not only in Russia, but also far beyond its borders. For many, this brand has become the same symbol as nesting dolls or borscht. Many tourists who come to us take home kilograms of soft grillage as gifts and souvenirs.

This delicacy can be bought in the so-called "Russian" stores around the world or even ordered via the Internet. Isn't that what is called global popularity?

And the Krasny Oktyabr factory itself is known outside of Russia for its quality and age-old confectionery traditions. It may seem to some that we cannot compete in the sweet art with European countries, in particular, with "chocolate" Belgium, but even Europeans so spoiled with sweets are crazy about our roasting. That is why “Bear-toed Bear” is a candy that will delight us with its unique taste for many decades to come.

Contrary to the general opinion of my friends, who are aware of my museological past, the most important of the arts for me is not painting or architecture, but arts and crafts: glass, porcelain, textiles, furniture, etc. The history of things and everyday life, industrial design, advertising graphics - that's what excites my research interest and makes me sit all day at the computer in search of an answer to some hooked question. For example, today the question was: “Why did they put Shishkin on a candy wrapper”? It would seem, where are the bears, and where is the chocolate. And it all started with the fact that my husband loves sweets "Mishka clumsy". By tradition, on New Year's holidays, I usually buy a bag of candies that are beloved in the family: for myself - “Autumn Waltz”, “ bird's milk"And bars, and Mikhail Ivanovich -" Bears ". And here I am sitting in the morning, drinking tea with sweets and, like Carroll's Alice, I argue: “Do cats eat midges? Misha loves“ Bears ”. And Shishkin is one of his favorite artists, no matter how hard I tried to draw his attention, for example, to Vrubel. I wonder why the sweets are called “Clumsy Bear”, and not “Morning in a Pine Forest”, what is the name of the painting itself? And why Shishkin? And who in this case is the wrapper designer? Not Shishkin himself - there must have been someone in production, an industrial graphic designer who developed the layout of the candy wrapper. And away we go - all day I plunged into the sweet world confectionery production, Soviet industrial design and collecting wrappers. By the way, collecting candy wrappers is called "saculomistics" from lat. sacculum "sack". Surely you did not know this))


"Mishka Kosolapy" is the oldest candy according to the recipe and packaging, which is produced at the Krasny Oktyabr factory. As you know, "Red October" was formed in 1922 as a result of the nationalization of the "Einem Chocolate Candy and Tea Biscuits Factory". I must say that before the appearance of the factory of Theodor Ferdinand von Einem in Russia in 1867, neither candy nor chocolate had a name. Chocolate was marked with numbers and packaged in foil. Buyers distinguished it either by numbers or by the color of the foil. It was Einem, in tandem with his partner Julius Geis, who laid the foundation for advertising in confectionery. Particular attention was paid to sonorous names: "Empire", "Mignon", chocolate "Boyarsky", "Golden Label". Airships soaring proudly over the city bore inscriptions calling for Einem's chocolates to be bought. His own composer wrote music for the factory, and the buyer, along with caramel or chocolate, received for free the notes of "Chocolate Waltz", "Montpensier Waltz" or "Cupcake Gallop". For the manufacture of advertising and packaging, the Einem factory attracted the best artists of the time, such as Vrubel, Bakst, Bilibin and Benois.


The advertising of the Einem factory was in line with fashion trends, it was stylish, advanced, it entertained and enlightened. Colorful series of chocolates and sweets were created on various themes: a collectible card was put into boxes with sweets, on one side of which the buyer saw a picture, and on the other side he could read a short article of an encyclopedic nature. There were series “Hunting in Russia”, “On the 300th anniversary of the reign of the Romanov dynasty”, “1812”, “Monuments of Russia”, “Treasures of land and sea”, but in this case we are most interested in a series of 12 cards “Russian artists and their paintings”, which included Ivan Shishkin’s “Morning in a Pine Forest”, which interests us, written in 1889 and acquired by Pavel Tretyakov for his gallery in the same year.

No, he is not Shishkin, he is different - this is Vasnetsov. And there was no historical card with Shishkin in the archives of the Internet.


A series of cards "Russian Artists" was put into sets of sweets covered with chocolate icing, with praline filling, placed between two crispy wafers. Pralines are almonds mashed with sugar and cocoa butter, a very common delicacy in Germany, the birthplace of Ferdinand Theodor von Einem. With the exception of cocoa butter substitutes, emulsifiers and flavors, the candy recipe has not changed over the years. The Russian Artists series was published in 1896, so the Mishka recipe turns 120 this year. But as for the actual name "Clumsy Bear" and the design of the wrapper, the most interesting thing is ahead.

"Morning in a Pine Forest" (and not "Bears in a Pine Forest"). 1889
Hood. I. Shishkin (bears were painted by Konstantin Savitsky, as we all know, but since Tretyakov ordered to erase his signature from the picture when buying, we will remain in the classical version of the sole authorship of Shishkin).
State Tretyakov Gallery


Almost simultaneously with the release of the thematic series of cards "Russian Artists", Shishkin's masterpiece was already on an individual candy wrapper, and not on insert cards. The Museum of the History of Chocolate and Cocoa "MISHKA" on Malaya Krasnoselskaya, 7 in Moscow houses a valuable exhibit - a genuine candy wrapper "Mishka-toed" of the turn of the 19th-20th centuries, for which museum workers had to chase through auctions. The name "Clumsy Bear" was born, apparently, along with the design of the candy wrapper. It is difficult to say exactly when this happened, but the museum wrapper dates back to the mid-1890s. However, this wrapper, although it repeats Shishkin's canvas, is not yet "the one" - with bear cubs on a turquoise background. The authorship of the famous design of the “bear” wrapper belongs to the artist Manuil Andreev, who in 1913 placed on the wrapper the plot of the painting “Morning in a Pine Forest” framed by green spruce branches and painted six-pointed stars of Bethlehem, since in those years sweets were the most expensive and desired gift just for Christmas.

"Bear clubfoot" factory "Einem". Hood. M. Andreev. 1913


After 1917, drawings and fonts for labels and packaging were borrowed from old, "pre-revolutionary" samples, so the bear candy in a wrapper according to M. Andreev's drawing and according to the original recipe was produced from 1925 already at the Krasny Oktyabr factory after nationalization " Einem".

IF YOU WANT TO EAT "BEAR", GET YOURSELF "SAVING BOOK"

"Mishka" produced by "Red October" was very popular, exported and cost in Mosselprom (the food trust of the Moscow Council of People's Commissars, uniting confectionery, flour-grinding, brewing and tobacco factories in Moscow), quite expensive - 4 rubles per kilogram, these were the most expensive sweets of the time. Agitprop genius Vladimir Mayakovsky even came up with a sonorous slogan, which was immediately imprinted on a wrapper: “If you want to eat “Mishka”, get yourself a Passbook.” This was the only innovation of the Soviet era - the turquoise background, Christmas tree ornament, bears and even the stars of Bethlehem remained in their places.

Wrapper "Bears of a clubfoot" production
factory "Red October".
Beginning 1920s Hood. M. Andreev.


By the way, a certain symbolism for mass consumer culture, which Mishki acquired from the start of production at Red October in 1925, is illustrated by the fact that the artist Alexander Rodchenko depicted this particular candy on the wall of the famous constructivist building of Mosselprom in Moscow. In addition to "Bear-toed Bear" on the walls of the house were advertisements for milk and beer "Friend of the Stomach", cigarettes "Herzegovina Flor" and Mayakovsky's famous slogan: "Nowhere but in Mosselprom."

"House of Mosselprom" in Kalashny Lane in Moscow.
Arch. N. D. Strukov, panel - thin. A.M. Rodchenko and V.F. Stepanov.
1925. As an example of the "confection" sold in Mosselprom, it is the "Clumsy Bear" that is given.


During the Great Patriotic War, the production of confectionery products at the Krasny Oktyabr factory was practically stopped: Gvardeisky and Cola chocolate bars with a high content of theobromine and caffeine were produced, porridge concentrates and signal checkers were produced. Meanwhile, the author of the famous 1913 label Manuil Andreev, having become one of the founders of Russian industrial design, fulfills orders for the wine, perfume, tobacco, tea and coffee and canning industries. In 1944, he became a member of the Moscow Union of Artists and taught drawing to young graphic artists, among whom was Leonid Chelnokov, the future chief artist of the Red October factory.

The chief artist of the factory "Red October" Leonid Chelnokov.
1960s


In the 1930s, Chelnokov, under the guidance of Konstantin Yuon, studied at the "working studio" at the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions. Although Yuon is known to us as a traditionalist landscape painter from his paintings in the Tretyakov Gallery, he led the development of advertising posters and packaging at Mosselprom. After serving in the army and going through the war, Chelnokov returned to Moscow and, on the advice of his teacher Manuil Andreev, decided to try himself in the field of “production art”. It must be said that Chelnokov's father Konstantin Petrovich at that time headed the lithography of the Krasny Oktyabr factory, that is, he supervised the production of packaging, the design of which his son would develop for 40 years. In the meantime, the novice industrial graphic artist Leonid Chelnokov was accepted into the staff of the specialized art workshop "Glavkonditer", which was administered by "Red October", where he worked for 42 years - first as an ordinary designer, and then as the chief artist. In the workshop of the Glavkonditer, he designed the products of the Moscow factories Krasny Oktyabr, Rot-Front, Udarnitsa and the factory named after. Babaev.
As the chief artist of the Krasny Oktyabr factory, Chelnokov restored and reworked the labels created before the revolution by his teacher Manuil Andreev for the Einem factory: Golden Label, Sadko, Cherry in Chocolate, 300th Anniversary of the House of Romanov "And, of course," Bear clubfoot. In 1958, he drew a 100-gram candy wrapper "Clumsy Bear" for the World Exhibition in Brussels, where "Red October" received the highest award. Chelnokov simplified the color scheme of the original wrapper, making the "Christmas trees" of green turquoise - the same color as the background, removed the decor around the inscriptions and outdated stars of Bethlehem. I can’t say that I like this simplification - I’m just more in favor of the classic version of Andreev with Bethlehem stars, but the artist knows better - such an approach could be dictated by the peculiarities of production paper packaging, saving paint, aesthetic requirements of the era in the end.

The wrapper of the "Bear-toed Bear" sample after 1958. Hood. L. Chelnokov.


Since that time, many confectionery factories of the USSR began to produce "Mishka", creating their own variation of the wrapper. Taking advantage of the fact that the "Clumsy Bear" was not patented, in the early 90s they began to produce it even in the USA. In the second half of the 1990s, Rospatent assigned Krasny Oktyabr the priority in the use of the trade mark "Mishka Kosolapy Candy" by Rospatent.
During his work at Red October, Leonid Chelnokov created hundreds of sketches for boxes for sweets and candy wrappers: Dunno, Cancer necks, Come on, take it away!, Cockerel, Red Poppy, Stratosphere , "Benedictine", "Korovka", "Cheburashka", "Kis-kiss", "Truffles", "Lemon". Probably, most of the wrappers of Soviet sweets that we remember were created by Leonid Chelnokov. In addition, he was a wonderful artist, his landscapes and still lifes are in many private collections.

"Red October" continues to produce caramel "Rakovye necks" in a wrapper designed by L. Chelnokov. By the way, if earlier this name confused me, now it doesn’t bother me - in addition to “cancer necks”, there were also “crow's feet” and “duck noses”. Where such a love for bird anatomy in the Soviet confectionery industry comes from is a mystery to me.


HOW RED RIDING HOOD WAS BORN
In 1955, the director of "Red October" called the senior master chocolate shop Nikolai Vinogradov and ordered him to urgently make a large batch of sweets "Mishka clumsy". To which he received the answer - "practically it is impossible, the stocks of almonds have run out." The director said that he was of little interest, make from those nuts that are. Vinogradov took off his dressing gown and refused to do the hack work. In the end, a trial batch of sweets was made, where peanuts were used instead of almonds. Everyone liked the sweets, but they called them "Little Red Riding Hood".
SIMPLE - NOT BETTER

Did I mention that I didn't like the 1950s trend to simplify images on wrappers? Forget - those were flowers. In our time, this trend has passed the zero mark in the category of anti-artistic minus. Apparently, this is the same fake for a wrapper, like the surrogate from artificial additives and preservatives inside - a fake for "the same sweets." For example - "Squirrel" then and now.

"Squirrel" then

“Bear in the North”, “Bear toe”, “Come on, take it away!”, “Bird's milk” and, of course, “Squirrel” - the dolce vita of the Soviet man, the quintessence of gourmet's chocolate happiness, quasi-uno-fantasy of confectionery craftsmanship, sweet symbols of the era …

"Bear in the north"

Soft glazed candies with nut filling, enclosed in a waffle case, which received such an affectionate name "Bear in the North", confectioners of the N.K. Krupskaya factory began to produce on the eve of the Great Patriotic War, in 1939. The residents of the city on the Neva liked the delicacy so much that even during the most difficult period in the life of Leningrad, despite all the difficulties of wartime and the state of siege, the factory did not stop the production of these sweets, although it had to use substitutes for traditional confectionery raw materials.

Design of one of the first wrappers for the Bear in the North candy

The well-known and recognizable design of the candy wrapper, which depicts a polar bear in the snowy expanses of the North Pole, was created by the famous artist Tatyana Lukyanova, who has been collaborating with the Leningrad factory for many years.


In the USSR, "Mishka in the North" was produced by several factories

Years passed, but the popularity of “Mishka na Severe” was growing, so the producers found it necessary to improve the taste of their favorite delicacy by adding additional types of nuts to the praline body of the candy in the 60s, as well as expanding the range of confectionery products of such a successful and sought-after brand.

"Bear clubfoot"

Few know that chocolate candies"Clumsy Bear" - a kind of Soviet confectionery symbol - does not come from the USSR, but from Tsarist Russia. Its history began in the workshops of the Partnership of the Einem Chocolate, Candy and Tea Cookies Steam Factory, and the very history of the creation of the candy has long been overgrown with numerous legends.

Approximately in the 80s of the 19th century, a candy was brought to Julius Geis, the head of the Einem Partnership, for a test: a thick layer of almond praline was enclosed between two wafer plates and glazed chocolate. The factory owner liked the find of the confectioners, and the name "Clumsy Bear" immediately appeared. According to legend, a reproduction of the painting by Ivan Shishkin and Konstantin Savitsky "Morning in a Pine Forest" hung in Geis's office, as a result of which the name was first invented, and later the design of the new delicacy.


"Morning in a pine forest". I. Shishkin, K. Savitsky, 1889

But when was the famous candy wrapper born? The N. A. Nekrasov TsUNB fund contains the most complete album of pre-revolutionary and Soviet works by the artist Manuil Andreev, the author of the sweet symbol. The album shows the exact date of the appearance of the "Bear-toed Bear" wrapper - 1913. If you follow this entry, 2013 was the 100th anniversary of the legendary candy wrapper.

In the early 90s, "Bear-toed Bear" was released even in the USA


On the wrapper, the artist placed the plot of the painting “Morning in a Pine Forest” framed by green spruce branches and painted the stars of Bethlehem, since in those years sweets were the most expensive and desired gift for the Christmas holidays. By the way, the wrapper layout was already approved by the son of Julius Geis, Vladimir, who since 1907, after the death of his father, headed the board of the Einem Partnership.

After 1917, drawings and fonts for labels and packaging were borrowed from old, "pre-revolutionary" designs. The names of many goods remained the same. In addition, with the victory of the Great Socialist Revolution, everything became public property, including candy recipes. Therefore, when all-Union collections of recipes began to appear in the late 1920s, each Soviet factory could repeat the masterpiece of another manufacturer.


Candy wrappers "Bear clubfoot"

After the Great Patriotic War, Leonid Chelnokov, a student of Manuil Andreev, restored the work of his teacher. Being the chief artist of the Krasny Oktyabr (formerly Einem) factory, in 1958 he drew a candy wrapper for the 100-gram bear candy for the World Exhibition in Brussels, at which Red October received the highest award. Since that time, "Mishka" began to be produced by many confectionery factories in the USSR, more than 20 of which printed their own variation of the wrapper, modifying Shishkin's plot. Taking advantage of the fact that the "Clumsy Bear" was not patented, in the early 90s they began to produce it even in the USA. In the second half of the 1990s, Rospatent assigned the priority in using the trade mark "Sweets" Mishki "Kosolapy"" to OJSC "Moscow Confectionery Factory" Krasny Oktyabr "".

"Come on, take it!"

popular in Soviet time candy "Come on, take it away!" was also released more than a hundred years ago at the Einem factory thanks to the same Manuil Andreev. On the wrapper, the artist depicted a ferocious-looking boy with a bat in one hand and a bitten Einem chocolate bar in the other. There was no doubt that the boy was ready for anything to finish eating the delicacy.


Chocolate "Come on, take it away!". Einem Partnership, early 20th century

The candy took on an independent life on many advertising inserts, postcards and advertisements of the Einem factory, becoming its calling card. After the revolution, Manuil Andreev again returned to the image of a boy with a bat, however, the inscription "Einem" and "Kommersant" disappeared from the wrapper of the delicacy. But in this form, the candy did not last long, since a happy Soviet kid could not have such a ferocious look, and, besides, his pants were patched. Therefore, on subsequent versions of the label of the factories of the People's Commissariat of Food Industry of the USSR, and since 1946 - the Ministry of the Food Industry - the boy smiled happily.


Candy wrappers "Come on, take it away!"

In 1952, the artist Leonid Chelnokov, creatively reworking and preserving the background of the wrapper, painted a girl in a blue pea dress with a candy in her hand teasing a white dog. Subsequently, both characters of the label changed beyond recognition, and in some factories of the USSR they disappeared altogether, giving way to all sorts of animals and fairy-tale heroes. But, despite this, in the memory of all Soviet boys and girls, the “Chelnokovsky” image of their favorite delicacy has been preserved.

Soviet brand of sweets "Come on, take it away!" received new life


In modern Russia, the brand of sweets "Come on, take it away!" got a new life. Only now, instead of a girl and a dog, a superman with the colors of the Russian flag on his chest is placed on the wrapper, and the new name “Crimea. Come on, take it!"


Advertising of the new candy "Come on, take it away!"

"Bird's milk"

The delicious story of Bird's Milk began in 1936. Jan Wedel, owner of the Polish confectionery factory E. Wedel, developed a recipe for amazing candy, unlike any other confectionery product produced before. These sweets were prepared according to the marshmallow recipe, only without the addition of eggs: sugar, gelatin, dextrose and flavorings were whipped to the state of a “sponge”. After that, sweets were formed from the sweet mass and glazed with chocolate. Contemporaries gave the dessert an unambiguous assessment: “He is divine!” And Jan Wedel, having listened to these sincere delights, called his culinary creation "Ptasie Mleczko" ("Bird's milk"). The confectioner reasoned simply: “What more could a man who has everything want? Indeed, only bird's milk.


Box of chocolates "Ptasie Mleczko"

The delicious story of "Bird's Milk" began in 1936


In 1967, the Minister of the Food Industry of the USSR, during a working visit to Czechoslovakia, tried this original delicacy. Returning to his homeland, the official gathered the confectioners of large enterprises at the Rot-Front factory, demonstrated a box of Ptasie Mleczko he had brought, and gave them the task of inventing something similar to this foreign dessert. The best, according to Soviet citizens, was the development of specialists from the Primorsky Confectioner factory from Vladivostok under the leadership of Anna Chulkova. She personally finalized the recipe and experimented with the ingredients. At her own initiative, the manual cutting method was mechanized, thanks to which production volumes doubled. For the development of a unique recipe, Anna Chulkova was even awarded the Order of Lenin.


Sweets "Bird's milk"

Some time after the minister's arrival from abroad, mass production of Bird's Milk sweets began in the USSR. The Soviet "milk" was delicious - everyone knew that, but which sweets were the best - the question is very subjective: someone got exactly the Vladivostok "bird", and someone was looking only for the Moscow one. In the Union, "Bird's milk" was produced on an industrial scale in factories from Vladivostok to the Baltic states, but still remained in short supply.

Sweets "Squirrel"

This candy can be called a symbol of the era of the twentieth century that has gone down in history. No one festive table, no one new year gift could not do without Belochka sweets. Wrappers made of thick paper, on a dark green background - a nimble squirrel, and inside - an incredibly tasty candy. With nuts.

The first "Squirrel" appeared in the early 40s of the XX century


The first "Squirrel" appeared in the early 40s of the last century and was produced by " confectionery factory named after N. K. Krupskaya, which was part of the Leningrad Production Association of the Confectionery Industry. In Soviet times, the production of these popular sweets reached thousands of tons per year. Later, in 1998, it was registered trademark"Squirrel". Today, the rights to the Belochka series of trademarks belong to Orkla Brands Russia.


Modern candy wrapper "Squirrel" factory named after N. K. Krupskaya

The brands created in the Soviet Union are phenomenal. They were able to survive their country and remain just as popular and in demand. Why? Because the stereotype still lives on: “Soviet means quality”, and in stores we are looking for products with familiar names, with “the same taste”, familiar from childhood.