Heres the story. The morning is wiser than the evening! Sherry is the favorite morning drink of aristocrats.

Speaking of strong wines, sherry cannot be forgotten. This wine is touchy, it does not tolerate inattention. If - this is a noisy, cheerful Porthos; - sweet ladies' man Aramis; then sherry is undoubtedly a refined Athos, with a contradictory character and an intricate, sometimes dramatic history.

It is not surprising that the legendary Count De La Fere loved this drink more than others. And not only him. Sherry was preferred by writers Cervantes, Dickens, Nabokov, Chekhov, Conan Doyle and his character Sherlock Holmes, American President Benjamin Franklin, jazzman Charlie Parker. And Pablo Picasso was so fond of knocking over glasses of wine from his native Andalusia at breakfast that a separate variety of sherry was even named after him.

A good sherry […] throwing itself into your head, dries up in the brain all the stupid, vulgar and gloomy vapors surrounding it, makes it sharp-witted, lively, inventive, gives rise to playful, cheerful, ardent images in it, which, passing into voice into language, take kind of cute, witty jokes and antics.

Shakespeare "Henry IV"

"By old yeast." How is the most famous morning wine made?

The production technology of both Madeira and Port wine cannot be called simple. But sherry is by far the most complex of the trinity. In its production, not only grapes, air, sun and human labor are used, but also special yeast cultures - flor, under which the wine ripens without oxygen.

Sherry is a regional brand. A wine created in a triangle between cities can officially bear such a name. Jerez de la Frontera, Puerto de Santa Maria and Sanlúcar de Barrameda in Spanish Andalusia. Only here there is the right soil for growing grapes, only the local winemakers know the secrets of production that have been passed down from father to son for hundreds, if not thousands of years.

Of course, attempts to repeat the recipe were made, and some were even quite successful. Not bad, for example, Sherry Massandra. This, of course, is not "sherry" in the full sense of the word, but in the absence of a maid, a butler will do. If you want to try refreshing cocktails with sherry, it is quite suitable for their preparation. By the way, it is at the Massandra factory that the oldest sherry bottles in the world, dating back to the beginning of the 18th century, are stored.

- I'm from Siberia, I'm an orphan ... But just so that I don't feel so sick ... I want sherry.

V. Erofeev "Moscow-Petushki"

But we digress. Very roughly, the production of sherry can be represented as follows:

1. At the beginning and end of September, the grape varieties Perdro Ximenes, Moscatel, Tintilla de Rota (for sweet wines), Mollar, Albillo and Perruno (for dry wines), Mantuo and Palomino Bianco (for elite varieties) are harvested.
2. The collected bunches are aged under the sun for 1-2 weeks.

Thus, the content of tannins and malic acid in grape juice is reduced, but the sugar content is increased. “Ripening” grapes are laid out on straw mats, and at night they are covered with mats of special esparto grass to protect them from dew.

1. Another secret stage of production is plastering.

The chalk soils of Albaris contain large amounts of calcium carbonate. If it is not enough, the grapes are sprinkled with dry gypsum before pressing, which contains the same substance.

1. Next, the grapes are pressed.

Now the presses do it, and earlier specially trained workers, shod in special shoes with spikes, between which bits of vines and bones got stuck in a barrel of berries for 10-12 hours, were trampled for 10-12 hours.

1. Fermentation in barrels without flor lasts from 50 hours to 50 days - depending on the variety and type of wine.
2. Now flor is added to the drink - a yeast fungus of the Saccharomyces family.

Initially, the flor protected the wine and prevented it from turning into vinegar. The culture forms an airtight film on the surface, absorbs residual sugar, reduces the percentage of acids and glycerol, and increases the content of esters.

1. Mounting and classification.

After the initial aging, experienced winemakers determine what to do with the wine - send it and continue to age under the flora (this is how the elite Manzanilla and Fino varieties are obtained) or remove the bacteria and make a “simple” Oloroso or Amontillado, which is aged with air access. 96% grape alcohol comes into play. Manzanilla and Fino are fixed to a maximum of 15.5% - so as not to kill the fungus. And in Oloroso or Amontillado, you can immediately splash brandy, bringing the drink to 17 or more degrees - here the flor is no longer needed.

1. Exposure and selection.

Fortified sherry is decanted and sent to the cellars. There, a complex blending process takes place, with the dilution of younger wines with older ones - this technology is called "solera-and-criadera". It is impossible to accurately determine the year of birth of sherry - only the approximate average age is written on the bottles. But from year to year, the drink turns out to be approximately the same taste and quality.

The history of sherry: from the ancient Phoenicians to Commissar Mikoyan

Unlike Madeira and Port wine, sherry is an ancient drink. Since the end of the second millennium BC, wine production began near the city of Jerez de la Frontera. Grapes were brought here by the Phoenicians, as evidenced by the ancient Greek historian Strabo. The then sherry was famous for its long shelf life. True, its shelf life was extended not yet by flor, but by boiling - in a barbaric, but effective way. Such "boiled" sherry was massively imported by the Romans, which clearly testifies to the refined tastes of that era.

Alco-heit, oh sorry Alhaken II, a monument in Cordoba

In the 8th century AD, Spain was invaded by the Moors. Terrible Othello, who professed Islam, did not drink wine, but they knew the secrets of land reclamation. The vineyards, surrounded by a skilful irrigation system, began to sprout with a vengeance. True, there was one thing in the Moorish history of Spain, pardon the pun "black spot" - Caliph Alhaken II.

It was a kind of Moorish Gorbachev, who also held a high post at the turn of the millennium. In 966, he ordered to uproot all the vineyards of Jerez: they say that grapes are an invention of Shaitan, and in general - "sobriety is the norm of life." But local farmers quickly reminded the “reformer” that without grapes there would be no juice, no dolma, and most importantly, raisins, which the soldiers ate on campaigns.

The beginning of the reconquista finally saved the vineyards from the Moors. The Europeans, who conquered the Iberian Peninsula span by span, drank wine. Moreover, drunkenness was a symbol for them, a noble trait that distinguished the holy Christian knights from the dirty godless Arabs. "Reconquistadors" could tell modern sommeliers how to drink sherry - exclusively by barrels. Wine was given even to war horses so that they would boldly go on the attack. Alfonso X, who captured Jerez de la Frontera in 1264, first set about mass production of wine.

But it was not the Spaniards who brought world fame to sherry, but the British. Having tasted this peculiar drink, London sirs began to actively import it. True, they could not pronounce the word "Jerez", so they called him "Sherry". Under Henry III, the import of sherry reached such a scale that local winemakers were forced to standardize its production, establish rules for the collection and cultivation of grapes. Since 1483, cutting down vines in the region has been considered a criminal offense.

I have never had to be drunk on sherry, admitted Goranflo, it must be an unusually pleasant state.

A. Dumas "Countess de Monsoro"

A new stage in the development of sherry is the discovery of America. Magellan, going to the West Indies, took about 500 wineskins and 250 casks "on the road". At the time of colonization, sherry, which perfectly endures road hardships and hardships, practically does not spoil, became the basis for export to the New World, taking up to a third of all cargo sent there. Sir Francis Drake became interested in such active trade. In 1587 his men attacked the city and demanded an indemnity of 3,000 barrels of wine. The "farmed" kegs made a splash in London. Sherry ceased to be a royal drink, he poured into the British streets in a stormy stream, becoming the favorite wine of all the more or less wealthy Englishmen, and later of the European and American bourgeois who raised their heads.

Remember who ruled us? Take a look at the portraits: lean faces, haughty physiognomies ... Longing! A simple man works like a horse, and then looks at a sad monarch and he wants to hang himself! And then at some time a cheerful king appears, with an infectious smile ... A joker and a joker! This is the pride of the nation! And he is sick, like everyone else - with colitis! And it is treated, like everyone else, with sherry!

G. Gorin "Kin IV"

In 1944, sherry reached our lands - its production began in the Crimea, at Massandra. True, since 1933 "Jerez" is a regional trademark that can only be produced in Andalusia. But Comrade Mikoyan, who contributed to the development of winemaking in the USSR, didn't give a damn about it. He said - to make Massandra sherry, and they did it. Moreover, the very first harvest of 1944 is still considered the best. However, attempts to produce sherries have been made since the 19th century - not only in the Crimea, but also in Moldova, Dagestan, Armenia, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, the Kuban, Odessa and Kherson regions. A lot of sherries were made in Soviet times as well.

Is it possible to compare Soviet sherries with Spanish ones? No, and here are the reasons why:

1. Grape. In the union, any grapes were used for sherries - from rkatsiteli and kokur to chardonnay and aligote. Of the grapes grown in Andalusia, only Albillo was used.
2. Fastening. According to Soviet technology, the wine was fortified not with grape distillate, but with ordinary rectified alcohol, which, of course, affected the taste.
3. sherry. All “sherry” produced in the expanses of the former USSR was aged under flor for only a year, and then they underwent oxidized aging in barrels.
4. And finally holding technology. Solera and criadera, traditional for true sherries and other elite wines, has not been used anywhere in the CIS and is not being used.

Soviet sherry. From right to left: Don, Taman, Kuban, Uzbek, again Kuban, Moscow, two Dagestan, Kazakh, Armenian, three Moldavian and three Crimean, including the famous Massandra sherry.

So, Soviet sherry, like its currently produced descendants, is a wine that is made from different grapes, brewed using a different technology, fortified in a different way and, most importantly, aged under flor in a different way.

And finally - how to drink sherry?

How to drink Massandra sherry? Of course, like this: you pull out a bottle from the parental bar, move it to the entrance, where friends are waiting for you, and take turns from your throat, lighting a cheap cigar. Or so: in the Crimea, when the sun had almost set, and the heat subsided, from an aluminum mug, to the sounds of a guitar and the crackle of a fire.

But if you are generous with a bottle or two of real Spanish, you should at the same time think about what sips to drink it with, what kind of snack and how much to cool it.

The art of drinking sherry depends on its variety. Traditionally, the following are distinguished: Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado, Madium, Pale Creme, Palo Cortado, Oloroso and Pedro Jimenez.

• Fino- the most expensive sherry with a strength of about 18%. Fino is always dry, always aged exclusively under flora, without oxygen.
• Manzanilla- Fino, grown only in the city of Sanlúcar. It is even less sweet than regular fino.

Both of these sherries are wonderful aperitifs, with a nutty flavor and fruity bouquet. This dry sherry is served very chilled, up to 5-10 degrees. Snack them with soft cheese, seafood and fish.

• Amontillado- also dry sherry, with amber color and almond notes. They eat it with hard cheese, white meat, or, like the landlords who were not finished off by the Bolsheviks, with soup. Temperature - 10 °.
• Madium also served at 10°, it goes well with smoked meats and various pâtés and has an unusual, very bright taste for a dry wine.
• Pale Cream combined with poultry liver and fruit, it opens up perfectly at 7 degrees Celsius.
• But Palo Cortado differs sharply from other dry sherries. It is produced like fino, but sometimes, for mysterious reasons, the flora on the surface of the wine dies, and the wine begins to age using oxidized technology.

Black tea is the perfect accompaniment to dessert sherries

Palo Cortado is cooled to no more than 16 degrees. It is not recommended to eat it at all, but this drink, like a good brandy, goes well with cigar smoke. Some Russian connoisseurs recommend this drink with ... dumplings!

• Oloroso- sherry aged without the participation of flora, very fragrant, with nutty notes and golden color. It can be dessert, and dry, and semi-dry. Dry snacks are eaten with red meat, the rest are consumed as a digestif at a temperature of 16 ° C.
• And finally Pedro Jimenez- the most famous dessert sherry, with a slightly captured raisin aroma. It is served with desserts and blue cheeses chilled to 13°. Pedro Ximenez goes well with black tea, biscuits, and goes well with our traditional "tea table".

You are full and indifferent, and therefore have a penchant for philosophy, but I want to live, and therefore I drink sherry at dinner and smoke cigars and that's it.

It is believed that the recipe for sherry was brought to Spain by the Moors in the eighth century. Naturally, it was only technology. Only thanks to the unique properties of the Spanish grapes, she made it possible to create modern sherry.

1 How did sherry wines appear?

The Moors greatly changed the lives of the inhabitants of Spain. Among other changes, they began to interfere with winemaking. Despite the fact that the invaders professed Islam, which forbids drinking alcohol, during their occupation in Spain, wine production grew at a tremendous pace. The Spaniards have always known how to make wine, but the approach that the Arabs brought was the beginning of an amazing wine tradition. The fact that today every tourist is offered a glass of sherry and a bottle of excellent wine in addition is a direct confirmation of this.

The vineyards of Spain were distinguished by new features for the invader. To begin with, the cultivation of grapes here was set in a special manner, the varieties were clearly separated, looked after, and experimented with. Varietal diversity made it possible to achieve accurate taste characteristics. In addition, the microclimate was of particular importance, which in Spain caused the emergence of many varieties of fungus and mold, affecting the final taste of the wine. Surprisingly, some mold grew only here, therefore, it was impossible to repeat this wine in another part of the world.

In the old days, the uniqueness of alcoholic beverages was valued less than today, but even then it was celebrated. When the Moors added their then barbaric approach to the unique conditions, the Spaniards were surprised by the result. The method of "criadera and solera" has changed the view of winemakers on the process of aging alcohol.

2 Classic criadera and solera technology

Let's understand the concepts. Criadera is a "nursery", "kindergarten" in Spanish. Solera is translated by the phrase "the oldest barrel." The main goal of the method is to accelerate the aging of wine without losing its qualities. How it works? Sherry casks are always only 90% full. Then they are built into pyramids. Each pyramid can have from three to seven tiers. The lowest tier is called solera, all subsequent upper tiers are called criadera.

Sherry is called a wine without age, and this is partly true. The essence of the method is that after a certain aging time, one third of the wine is drained from the solera barrels and bottled. The lost third is added from that row of criaderas, which is located directly above the solera row. This process of topping up from the top row continues until the top "floor" is reached. Then young wine is poured into the upper barrels.

The process of mixing a young wine with an older one makes it possible not only to equalize the taste characteristics of different vintages, but also to achieve a faster aging of the drink. Today, wineries have their own terms for wine renewal. The old rules stipulated that ready-made sherry would be drained from the solera once every six months.

3 The role of mold in beverage production

The main reason why real sherry is made only in Spain is not a tricky game with age, but unique climatic conditions. It doesn't matter if the winemaker is interested in sweet or dry sherry - to obtain a certain taste and smell, this wine must not only be aged in barrels according to the solera system, it must be covered with a film of special mold. In the world of winemakers, this mold is called "sherry yeast".

The fact that real sweet sherry can only be produced in Andalusian conditions is justified by the high concentration of sherry yeast in the natural environment of grape growing. It is theoretically possible to introduce yeast from the outside, but the effect will not be the same. That is why it is almost impossible to produce this wine at home, if you do not live in Andalusia.

Despite this barrier, dry and sweet sherry was sold in large quantities in the Soviet Union. How did it happen, and what are the differences between sherries from different parts of the mainland? First, do not forget that the USSR was a very closed world, in which everything that was allowed by the authorities was possible. Since everyone liked to drink sherry, there was no reason to ignore this wine.

Secondly, it was easy to borrow the solera system, but with sherry yeast, the winemakers of the Crimea were cunning. That is why sherry is Crimean and does not look like Spanish wine. Sherry systems have been developed to give the right taste to the drink. They gave nice results and remain in demand to this day. However, this wine is far from the original taste.

Thirdly, the most popular variant of this type of Crimean wine was sweet sherry. Its strength reached 20 degrees. The most expensive and sought-after sherry in Spain is Fino - dry wine from the least sweet sherry grape variety. There are many other differences, but this is not the main one. The main thing is to understand whether it is possible to get decent sherry at home?

4 Option for making sherry at home

Allowing a number of rather gross indulgences, wine is produced in the Crimea, which is called sherry. Something similar can be done at home. Yeast is nowhere to be found, but the solera system is available to everyone. The main thing is to understand whether you agree to drink wine that bears little resemblance to the legendary standard or not. If so, then you need to use a few simple guidelines.

• Young wine for aging according to the Solera system should be made, not bought. Vintage wines today leave much to be desired.
• If sherry casks are filled to 90% to leave room for the liquid to come into contact with the yeast film, then at home, casks should be filled much more. This will reduce the surface of contact of wine with air and its oxidation.
• It is very good if the wine is aged in wooden barrels. If there are none, then glass containers can be used. Some simply mark the bottles with age so that they know what to pour from where, and not engage in the construction of a pyramid.
• The strength of the wine should not exceed 18 degrees. Or rather, if you like to drink strong wine, then it's up to you, but it's not even close to sherry.
• It will be useful to read about the organoleptic characteristics of sherry, to explore grape varieties in Spain and the area where you live. Ultimately, much depends on the grapes, not technology.

Making sweet or dry sherry at home is a rather risky undertaking. You will most likely succeed in making wine, but it will not be possible to consider it similar to the original Spanish drink. However, no one forbade free experiments.

5 How to understand the “soul” of sherry

The system of sherry wines in Spain is quite complex. It does not look like a family tree of an old family and, in fact, it is. The whole system is based on two variants of wine. It is dry and sweet sherry. There is also a bathing option. It involves mixing different wines. All wines are made from three grape varieties. These are varieties Palomino, Moscatel or Pedro Jimenez. The sweetest of them all Palomino. It is from it that a less numerous group of sweet natural wines of this type is made.

What to try to understand the "soul" of sherry? You can immediately refuse blended wines. Choose a couple of dry and sweet options. Let them be made from grapes of different varieties.

Then it will be possible to accurately determine the difference and understand what exactly needs to be added to homemade wine to make it look like original sherry. Experiments of this kind may not help to prepare something really similar to the original, but you will definitely get acquainted with an amazing liquor.

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Which is called sherry, is a unique drink. It goes well with meat dishes and can become a king. festive feast. In this article, you will learn what sherry is and how to use it correctly.

The history of sherry

The history of the origin of this drink originated in 1000 BC, when the Phoenicians, as the most famous winemakers in the world, conquered the territory of modern Spain. Favorable climatic conditions allowed them to grow rich grapes, which, after fermentation, gave a fortified taste of sherry wine, different from other varieties of wines. Spain during the Middle Ages supplied this variety of wine to the Irish and the British, who gave it its name - Sherry. Don't confuse it with Cherry's cherry syrup drink.

Millennia later, sherry production technology has been preserved. At the moment, the original sherry is produced only in Spain in the city of Andalusia and in the Crimea at the Massandra plant, where weather conditions and production technology are optimally combined, allowing the cultivation of a special grape variety.

The question of what sherry is can be answered as follows: it is a very strong wine with a low sugar content, a very specific bitter aftertaste and vanilla aroma. This controversial combination has made this drink one of the most popular wines in the world.

Useful properties of sherry

Scientists from all over the world say that Spanish sherry is as good for health as traditional red wines. This is proven to include strong antioxidant polyphenols. It is this component that allows you to protect the body from free radicals, which, as you know, damage the biological structure and molecules of human DNA.

Geneticists have found that free radicals are a major source of health problems in old age. Therefore, the intake of polyphenols in the body can prevent diseases such as diabetes, immune system disorders, hypertension, arthritis, and even cancer. Therefore, if you know what sherry is and what useful properties he possesses, then you can use this wine as a remedy. Of course, this does not mean that red wines and sherry can be abused. Everything should be in moderation, and consulting a doctor will avoid complications.

Sherry production process

The question of what sherry is can be answered with accuracy only after studying technological process its production. Distinctive feature sherry from ordinary red wines lies in a special fermentation technology. placed in a wooden barrel, after which a film forms on the surface. Such a film is called sherry yeast or fleur, and it keeps the future wine from oxidizing.

After the full maturation of sherry, which takes from 1.5 to 4 years, the grape must is laid out on straw mats for drying. Dried grapes are squeezed and continue to ferment in tanks made of this technology gives sherry a special fortified taste, which distinguishes it from other wines.

Types of sherry

Sherry wines after fermentation are divided into two types, depending on the consistency of sherry yeast. The first type is called Fino, this is a real sherry with a strength of 20%. The second type, called Oloroso, requires more aging with the addition of alcohol. Oloroso base is used to make other wines.

The main types of this drink are: Manzanilla, Amontilliado, Pale Cream, Palo Cortado and Pedro Ximenes. These varieties of sherry wine differ in strength, amount of sugar and aging time. The most famous and sold type is Fino, which has a dry strong taste. Palo Cordato is considered the rarest and most difficult to produce because it takes a long time to age under the veil.

Each type of sherry has its fans among connoisseurs of vintage vintage wines due to its rich taste. It is impossible to say unequivocally which variety is the best, since the choice depends only on personal preferences.

Crimean sherry

It is known that the climatic conditions in the Crimea are very similar to those in Spain. When the whole world learned what sherry is, they began to produce it at the Massandra winery in the settlement of the same name. At the same time, the technology for the production of the drink is completely identical with the Spanish counterpart.

Vintage strong wine has been produced on the territory of Crimea since 1944. Sherry "Massandra" has subtle notes of roasted nuts, bitter almonds and vanilla. Experts and connoisseurs note that it is in no way inferior to the Spanish drink in taste and quality.

The world-famous Massandra sherry goes well with light snacks. For example, olives, cheese or vegetable salads. Doctors recommend Crimean sherry as a remedy for hypothermia and raising immunity. The price for a bottle of Crimean collection wine varies from 400 to 500 rubles in different regions of Russia.

How to drink sherry?

The tradition of drinking sherry goes back thousands of years. During this time, practically nothing has changed, except Traditional sherry is not recommended to be poured into painted glasses, because then it will not be possible to enjoy the rich color of the wine. It is better to use traditional tulip-shaped glasses made of transparent glass.

Sherry, like any wine, needs to be chilled before serving. The optimum temperature is 5-10 degrees. Warm wine will be more like vinegar than the "drink of the gods." Also, don't rush. Like any wine, sherry does not like too much haste. Therefore, you need to use it measuredly, in small sips, stretching the pleasure. This will bring out the unique taste. ancient drink in the history of mankind.

Sherry is also used as a component for various kinds of cocktails based on vodka, rum or gin. Therefore, if you know what sherry is and how to use it correctly, you can create a delicious mix that will complement orange or grapefruit syrup.

Sherry) is a fortified wine produced in Spain from white grapes, in a triangle between the cities of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlucar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa Maria, located in the southern autonomous community of Andalusia. The alcohol content is from 15% to 22%, depending on the type of sherry. Sugar content for different varieties varies over a very wide range - from 0-5 to 400 grams of sugar per liter of wine [ ] .

A distinctive feature in the production of sherry varieties such as Fino and Manzanilla, is the fermentation of grape must under a film of a special type of sherry yeast (the so-called flora). In some types of sherry, this film remains on the surface of incomplete barrels for the entire period of wine maturation, preventing its oxidation. For sherry varieties such as Oloroso and Amontillado, the so-called oxidative aging is characteristic, when the wine is aged in a barrel, in contact with air (without flora).

Wine brand

Currently, the word "sherry" is a brand name for wine controlled by origin.

Vineyards and grape varieties

Vineyard with "albariza" soil in the province of Sanlúcar de Barrameda

The soil of the vineyards that produce fruit for the production of sherry is chalky, clay and sandy. The best wines obtained from chalky soils, which are called "Albariza" (Albariza - "white" in Spanish). This is a soft, porous soil with a high content of chalk, which easily absorbs water and retains it well in depth. Accordingly, vineyards are divided into two categories according to soil type: Jerez Superior(located in areas with soil Albariza) and Zone(located in areas with clay and sandy soils).

The most common grape varieties are:

1. Palomino bianco, which matures the earliest and produces first-rate wines; two varieties of Mantuo, which make good wine and grow well in sandy soils with calcareous or chalky subsoil;
2. Two types of Mollar, Albillo and Perruno, from which dry wines are made, especially appreciated due to their bouquet;
3. Pedro-Ximenez, Moscatel and Tintilla-de-Rota produce top quality sweet wines.

Sherry production

Wine is made from grapes that are fully ripe, for which they resort to a partial, repeatedly repeated collection. In the production of sweet varieties of sherry, most often the grapes are laid out on straw mats before crushing or pressing, sometimes exposed to the sun for up to two weeks. After that, the grapes, sprinkled with a small amount of gypsum, are squeezed out. Juice (grape must) is fermented in 40-50 bucket barrels or food grade stainless steel tanks. If it is not initially planned to obtain oxidative aged sherry - during the fermentation process, a sherry yeast culture is added to the must, which forms a yeast layer on the surface of the must - the so-called flor (from Spanish flor- flower), preventing the contact of wine with air.

sherry warehouse

Florated or unflorated wine is pre-aged in barrel for about a year. After that, the young wine is tested and the chief winemaker determines whether the resulting wine will go for varieties. Fino and Manzanilla(which are aged under a layer of flor) or for oxidative aged sherry - Oloroso- which is aged without flor, contacting with air and oxidizing).

Then the future sherry is fortified, for which they use neutral grape alcohol with a strength of 96% (usually locally produced, although spirits from neighboring regions can also be used). In order not to shock young wine with pure alcohol, the fastening process is carried out in stages: first, the required volume of alcohol is diluted with an equal amount of wine in a 50/50 ratio, and then the operation is repeated. Thus, a solution with a strength of 24% is obtained and the main volume of wine is already attached to it.

The wine that was selected to obtain sherry "Fino" ( Fino) or "Manzanilla" ( Manzanilla), is attached no more than up to 15.5%, which is the limit for the survival of the flora. In the wine that was selected for "Oloroso" ( Oloroso) or "Amontillado" ( Amontillado), alcohol is added to a strength of 17% or more, and even if there was flor in the barrel, it dies and further aging of the wine occurs in open contact of the wine with air.

Sherries are usually aged in incomplete barrels using the Solera y criaderas technology. Before entering the aging system, the wine rests in incomplete barrels from six months to a year. This stage is called sobretablas.

The Solera technology consists in the simultaneous storage and aging of wines of different vintages. In the pyramid of barrels, the barrels of the bottom row are called directly “solera” (from Spanish. suelo, "floor"), the rest of the barrels are called "criadera". Sherries are bottled strictly from the bottom row, for which a small part of the wine is taken from them (no more than one third). This part of the wine is added from the barrels of the overlying layer of the pyramid. And so on to the very top row, into which young wine is poured. The total number of solera levels is usually 3-5.

This method of aging leads to the production of sherries that are stable and almost identical in composition and taste properties for many years.

Sherry varieties

There are the following main types of sherry: Fino, Manzanilla, Pale Cream, Amontillado, Palo Cortado, Oloroso, Pedro Ximenes.

Conventionally, all of them can be divided into two large groups: sherries like Fino and sherries like Oloroso. The main difference between these two types of wine is the length of time the wine stays under the flor. Fino, manzanilla, amontillado stay under the flora film for a period of at least 3 years. Wines like Oloroso either do not form a layer of sherry yeast on the surface at all, or they spend a rather short time under it.

Fino- Produced from Palomino grapes (Spanish. Palomino) grown on chalky soil. After a careful selection of the primary material, the most promising samples are fixed up to 15% and placed in a solera. The entire aging process takes place under flora. This sherry is always dry. Its strength reaches 18%.

Manzanilla is a type of fino produced exclusively in the city of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Thanks to the microclimate, flora actively breeds in Sanlúcar all year round, and not eight months a year, as in other regions. This makes it possible to add more young wine to the solera. In addition, the grapes for Manzanilla are harvested a little earlier, when they are less sugary and more acidic, which also gives this wine a special taste.

pale cream is a classic fino to which a portion of dessert wine is added for sweetness, usually from Pedro Ximénez or Moscatel grapes.

Amontillado- fino aged after the flor has died. This can happen both because of harmful external conditions, and because of the addition of additional alcohol (more often). As a rule, the fortress of amontillado is from 16.5 to 18%.

Palo Cortado- a rare type of sherry, transitional type. Palo cortado begins its development as a classic fino and spends a significant amount of time under the flora. However, sometimes in the middle of the wine maturation process, the flora disappears from the surface, and the further process goes according to the Oloroso technology.

Oloroso- sherry, which, due to the characteristics of the must and the addition of a certain amount of alcohol, did not form flor (its strength is 16% or more). Oloroso means "fragrant" in Spanish. Oloroso can be not only dry, but also semi-dry and sweet, depending on the preparation technology and the moment the fermentation is stopped.

Pedro Ximenez- the sweetest type of sherry. It is made from grapes of the same name, harvested in the phase of maximum sugar content and additionally withered. It is aged in solera for very long periods (up to 30 years or more). It has a dark, almost black color, extremely thick texture, strong aroma.

sherry cocktails

Sherry has found wide application in the preparation of aperitif cocktails. When cooking mixed drinks it goes best with

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X heres, an ancient noble wine of dark brown color, invented at least five hundred years ago, was given to the world by Spain. The British called it sherry and consider it an excellent aperitif.

It is produced in the south of Spain in Andalusia, in an area surrounded by the cities of Jerez de la Frontera, San Lucar de Barrameda and Puerto de Santa Maria, which is 30 km from the port of Cadiz. The local hot climate, the proximity of the ocean, which affects the high humidity, are extremely favorable for grapes, the main varieties of which are Palomino and Pedro Ximenes. Grown in sun-lit white chalky soils, Palomino produces the finest wines. The composition of the soil is very important: the soil absorbs heavy spring rains, then, when the rains stop, a dense crust forms on the surface. The crust keeps water from evaporating from the soil, and the grapes feed on moisture during the long dry summer.

The sherry production technology does not differ from the classical technology for the production of white varietal wines. The grapes are harvested by hand in September. For several days there is a rapid fermentation of the must in oak barrels. In winter, the wine self-lightens. In February-March, each barrel is tested and the resulting wines are classified. High-class wines are poured, alcoholized to 15-15.5% and placed in clean oak barrels for storage. This period is called the sobretabla phase, i.e. the maturation of the wine in contact with the tree. According to the legislation regulating the controlled appellation of wines, the minimum aging period for sherry must be three years. For long-term storage, barrels of wine are placed in 3-4 tiers in long rows. The lower tier contains older wine, which is selected for use as it is ready.

The selected volume of wine is replenished with wine from the row above it, into which, accordingly, wine from the higher row is added, etc. The wine that is in the sobretabla stage enters the topmost row.

It should be noted that at present the barrels are not placed vertically, one above the other, but horizontally, connecting them with pipelines. This system of aging in barrels is called "solera". Its main purpose is to obtain large batches of wines of uniform quality.

There are many types of sherry, and different wines of different ages are taken from them. Some of them are more than a hundred years old, they keep the properties of a hundred years ago. Sherry, made from such an old venerable wine, has a deeper harmonious properties, more intense taste than young wines.

However, very little sherry is made from old wines. Such wines are considered the best sorts of sherry. These are dry wines, which gives them a special charm. They are very expensive.

Unlike other wines, sherry matures in unfilled barrels, i.e. there is air space above the surface of the wine. The specificity of the biological aging of sherry is associated with the spontaneous formation of a film on the surface of wine in incomplete barrels. In Spanish, it is called "flor" (flower). In the manufacture of sherry, special sherry yeast races are used, which are capable of forming a film on the surface of wine in incomplete barrels. Sometimes the film reaches 2 cm in thickness. When aging wine under a film of sherry yeast, significant changes in the chemical composition of the drink occur. In this process, called sherry, there are, in particular, qualitative and quantitative changes in organic acids, a specific aroma and taste of sherry is formed.

Spain produces many different types of sherry. Some of them do not have specific sherry tones, as different technological methods are used in the manufacture of sherry - biological aging, non-biological aging and mixed aging.

Biological aging of sherry is carried out with the formed film. In this case, the finest wines of fino (fino) and manzanilla (manzanilla) are formed.

The entire sherry family can be divided into two large groups: fino, ripened under a yeast film, and oloroso, ripened under a yeast film only at an early stage. Each of the groups consists of many options.

Fino is the driest sherry. It has a pale straw color and a very delicate bouquet with a specific shade of chamomile. On the palate, there is a slight bitterness, reminiscent of almonds. Fortress of wine - 15.5-17%.

Manzanilla is a special sherry that belongs to the Fino group and is produced only in the Sanlúcar de Barra meda area. This is a top quality fino, drier and more fragrant. The very humid microclimate of the area determines the specificity of manzanilla, which is softer and more fragrant than fino. The color of the drink is from pale straw to dark amber. Taste is slightly bitter. Fortress - 15.5-17%. In very old wines - up to 20%. In this case, the wine is called manzanilla pasada.

Manzanilla means "chamomile" in Spanish. It is possible that this name was given to the wine because of its light color. Oloroso (oloroso) - wine materials alcoholized up to 18% are subjected to non-biological aging. In this case, no film is formed over the surface of the wine, but it may appear after fermentation. Using this technology, Oloroso wines are obtained, the name of which, translated from Spanish, means "fragrant". This type of sherry wine is divided into oloroso, palo cortado, raya oloroso. Oloroso is the darkest, softest, fullest, extractive, aromatic dry wine with an ABV of 18-20%, achieved with sometimes 24% aging. Palo cortado is a rare variety of oloroso, thinner, fragrant and dark, with the characteristic aroma of amontillado and the taste of odoreo. Fortress - 17.5%. Can be aged for 20 years or more.

Raya oloroso is a coarser, less aromatic type of sherry from the oloroso group. It is a full, intensely colored wine with a minimum ABV of 18%, with a low sugar content.

Along with dry oloroso wines, sweet ones are also prepared by blending with dessert wines. High-sugar wines with low alcohol content and dark color are obtained.

Sweet oloroso wines include:

Pedro ximenes is one of the best sweet sherry wines. For its preparation, only ripe grapes of the Pedro Ximenes variety are used, which are dried in the sun for two to three weeks before pressing. It turns out a dark, very sweet wine.

Moscatel (moskatel) - is prepared according to a similar technology from Moscatel grapes, but the period of withering of the grapes is somewhat shorter. The aroma of wine retains the characteristic varietal aroma of grapes.

Abokado is a mixture of dry and sweet oloroso. With an intermediate or mixed aging method, the wine is aged under the film and without the film. This happens spontaneously, because with an increase in the strength of the wine to 18% or more, the vital activity of sherry yeast stops, the film settles to the bottom and the aging of the wine occurs in a non-biological way, like oloroso. In this way, amontillado wine is obtained, which has a velvety dry taste with a touch of hazelnut. Fortress - 16-18%, with a longer exposure - 20%, in exceptional cases - 24%. The color of the wine is golden yellow to amber. Amontillado wine gets its general taste qualities due to the fact that it matures and forms "at a height", in a more elevated area, for example, in the area around the city of Jerez. The name of this wine comes from the Spanish word monle, which means "mountain". There is another opinion, according to which the name of this wine comes from the city of Montilla in the province of Cordoba, from where some winemaking techniques passed to Jerez.

Among other types of sherry, we should mention medium (medium) - sherry produced for the foreign market. Reminds me of amontillado, but slightly sweeter. Made by blending sherry wines rather than aging.

Amoroso (amoroso)- soft and sweet oloroso produced by the addition of Pedro Ximenes wine and aged in bottles. The name comes from a Spanish word meaning "beloved". This name is rarely used today.

Cream (cream)- dark sherry made for foreign consumers by adding sugar to oloroso.

Pale cream (pale cream)- developed relatively recently for sherry lovers. The taste is a little lighter than in traditional cream sherry.

In Spain, quite a lot of excellent brands of sherry are produced for all tastes. The most famous wine producers include the following companies:

"Antonio Barbadillo" (Antonio Barbadillo).
Founded in 1881, this firm is the largest manzanilla producer in Sanlúcar de Barra meda. Produces about fifty brands of manzanilla - from the dryest to creams. The best are Tio Rio (Tio Rio), Eva Krim (Eva Cream), Sanlucar Crimea (Sanlucar Cream), Principe (Principe).

"Croft Jerez" (Croft Jerez).
This one of the oldest sherry producing firms supplies excellent quality Croft Original and Croft Delicado.

"Diez-Merite" (Diez-Merito).
Founded in 1876 under the name "Diez Hermanos", and in 1979 changed the name to the current one. Best sherries: Fino Imperial, Ohroso Victoria Regina, Don Zoilo.

"Duff Gordon" (Duff Gordon).
This is one of the oldest firms, founded in 1768 by Sir James Duff, the British Consul in Cadiz, produces the fine amontillado Fino Feria, Santa Maria cream and other sherries: Club Dry, El Cid ( ElCid). ;

"Garvey" (Garvey).
In 1780 William Harvey emigrated from Ireland. Having built a huge winery, he named it, his newborn son and a new brand of fino sherry in honor of St. Patrick, the patron saint of the Irish. The best brands of the company are San Patricia fino, La Lidia manzanilla, Tio Guillermo amontillado, Long Life oloroso, Flor de Jerez cream.

"Gonzalez Byass" (Gonzalez Byass).
The largest company in terms of sales and production of sherry. Founded in 1783. In 1835, the son of the founder, Manuel Maria Gonzales, began producing sherry, and in 1855, the Englishman Robert Blake Byass became his partner.

Currently, the company owns almost two thousand hectares of vineyards and produces a wide range of different sherries. The most famous of them is Tio Pepe (Tio Rere). The origin of this name is as follows: Manuel Gonzalez's uncle, nicknamed Tio Pepe, was known as a great supporter of light and dry sherry. Therefore, Manuel saved for him two large barrels (490 liters each) of fine fino, which his uncle treated his friends and everyone. Fame and fame new brand The drink grew rapidly in this way... Today it is the world's best-selling Fino brand, an elegant, dry and aromatic drink.

Other sherry brands produced by the company include Santo Domingo, Nectar and Alfonso oloroso. Rare sherry Matusalem (Matusalem), Solera 1847 (Solera 1847) and others are produced in small quantities. Over the long years of aging, these relic drinks have acquired an almost black color, exceptional saturation, incomparable aroma and a sharp, bitter-sweet aftertaste.

"John Harvey and Sons" (John Harvey & Sons).
This famous English firm was founded in 1796. There is an old tradition of shipping and blending sherry in Bristol. That is why the company called its wines Bristol Milk (Bristol Milk) and Bristol Crimea (Bristol Cream).

Today sherry Bristol Cream is the best-selling champion in the world among all its varieties. This brand of sweet sherry has an excellent flavor and aroma bouquet, which is the result of skillful blending of selected varieties of Fino, Amontillado, Oloroso. Made from Palomino grapes, Pedro Ximenes. Fortress - 17.5%. It is an excellent dessert wine that goes well with both traditional desserts (fruits, pastries) and mild cheeses and nuts. Among other brands of sherry from this company, Bristol Dry, Club Amontilliado, Luncheon Dry, Tico, a slightly herbal flavored drink, deserve mention. Specially made for use with ice.

"Osborne" (Osborne).
The company was founded in 1772 by a native of Devonshire (England) Thomas Osborne. It produces sherry brands: Fino Quinta, Osborne Cream, Conquinero, Bailen.

"Pedro Domecq" (Pedro Domecq).
This large sherry company was founded in 1730 by the Irish farmer Patrick Murphy, after whose death in 1762 the business passed to his partner Juan Khauri, and then to the latter's nephew Juan Carlos Khauri. During the French occupation of Spain, he supplied food and wine to the army of Marshal Soult, which his compatriots did not forgive him. Things fell into disrepair, but were revived by a royal official, the aristocrat Pedro Domec. And today this family retains control over the business, owning many wineries and vineyards.

Probably the most famous sherry produced by the company is La Ina fino. This pale golden dry drink has a bright, pungent aroma with nutty, nutmeg and mushroom tones. Its aroma is perfectly combined with a sharp specific taste, leaving a fresh and long aftertaste. Produced from Palomino grapes. Fortress - 15.5%. It is an unsurpassed aperitif and a great addition to fish dishes. Served with ice or chilled. A green olive is placed in a glass.

Among other brands of sherries from this firm, the popular Double Century cream, long-aged Celebration Cream, and the outstanding Rio Viejo dry Oloroso deserve mention. "Sandeman Germanos" (Sandeman Hermanos). Georg Sandeman was born in Perth in 1765 and started his business in London trading in port wine. Things were going well, and today this firm is widely known in the world primarily for its high-quality sherry and port wines, and also for its famous advertising symbol - a figure of a man wrapped in a stylized Portuguese student raincoat, wearing a wide-brimmed hat, similar to those still worn real caballeros in Jerez. Today the firm has been acquired by the Seagram Group but is still run by the Sandeman family. It produces dry sherry Fino Apitiv, Don Fino, Armada Cream, Oloroso Cream, outstanding aged Imperial Corregidor.

"Williams and Humbert" (Williams & Humbert).
The company was founded in the last century by the Englishman Alexander Williams on shares with his father-in-law's son Arthur Humbert. It produces fino Pando (Rando), the famous amontillado Dry Sack (Dry Sack), Canasta Cream (Canasta Cream), Dos Kopmadoc (Dos Cortados). Many sherry producers are known on the market at the same time as producers of port wine.

Wines with filmy yeast are produced in Spain also in other areas, but under existing law they do not have the right to be called sherry. In the province of Cordoba, in the area of ​​the town of Montilla and the nearby village of Moriles, sherry-type wines are prepared with a film aging period of at least two years. The history of local winemaking dates back to the time of Gaius Julius Caesar. The dominant local grape variety is Pedro Ximenes. The grapes are picked ripe, but not overripe, and immediately fermented. The wines are made according to the solera system, so the vintage year is not marked on the bottle labels. Like sherry, the wines of the Montilla-Moriles region are produced various kinds and are officially classified into fino, amontillado, oloroso, palo cortado, raya, pedro ximenez.

The best brands are Fino K.B. (Fino S.V.), Fino Festival by Alvear, Fino Andalucia by Fino Andalucia "Dodechas Navarro" and a number of others.

The wines of the Montilla-Moriles region are controlled denominations of origin. Unfortunately, they cannot compete with sherry and their production is gradually decreasing. In the provinces of Andalusia, Extremadura, sherry-type wines are also prepared with specific nuances in aroma and taste.

Sherry in other countries
Sherry-type wines are produced today in many countries: in the USA, Austria, France, Hungary, England, Switzerland, Bulgaria, etc. Three types of sherry are produced in the USA: dry (1-2.5% sugar), semi-dry (2. 5-4% sugar) and sweet (7-10% sugar). The fortress of all types is 19.5-20.2%.
In France, wines close to the type of sherry called "yellow wines" are made in Arbois (Jura).

For several centuries, Spain kept the secrets of sherry production, and only at the beginning of the 20th century did other countries of the world begin to master its production. Russia was one of those countries. The first prototypes using Spanish sherry yeast were produced in the Crimea by A. M. Frolov-Bagreev in 1908-1910. Production samples of sherry were prepared by M. A. Gerasimov in 1945. By 1948, the industrial production of sherry began in the Crimea, Armenia, Turkmenistan, and then in Moldova, Dagestan, and the Krasnodar Territory.

In the USSR, sherry was produced in three types: table, strong, and dessert sherry. Table sherry contains 0.3% sugar, 14-16% alcohol, strong - 3 and 19-20%, respectively, dessert - 19-20%. Here are brief characteristics of sherry-type wines produced in Russia and neighboring countries.

Moldova
Dry wine with a strength of 14-16% with a pronounced sherry aroma, salty taste, with spicy bitterness and nutty tones. Sugar content - up to 1%. Color - straw with a golden hue. Wine aging - 1.5 years. Produced since 1965 by the Ialoveni state farm-factory (Moldova). The wine was awarded 4 gold and 4 silver medals.

Amber
Dry strong vintage wine. Produced from white grape varieties grown in Moldova. Fortress - 18%, sugar - 1.5%. The wine is aged for 1.5 years. The color of the drink is from light golden to amber. The taste is soft, with almond tones and slight saltiness. Aroma of chamomile and fruit and nut tones. It has been produced since 1968 by the Ialoveni state farm-factory. The wine was awarded gold and silver medals.

Sherry strong vintage
Dry strong vintage wine. Produced from white grape varieties grown in Moldova. Fortress - 20%. Sugar - 3%. The wine is aged for 2 years. The color of the drink is light golden. The taste is soft, harmonious, with tones of red-hot nuts. The aroma is characteristically spicy. Produced since 1965. The wine has been awarded 6 gold and 4 silver medals.

Ialoveni
Strong vintage wine. Produced from white grape varieties grown in Moldova. Fortress - 19%. Sugar - 9%. Wine aging - 1.5 years. The color of the drink is dark brown. On the palate there is a nut in chocolate and a light citrus tint. The aroma is subtle. It has been produced since 1968 by the Ialoveni state farm-factory. Awarded with gold and silver medals.

Crimean
Strong white vintage wine. Produced from grapes grown in the steppe and foothill regions of the Crimea. Fortress - 19%. Sugar - 3%. The wine is aged for 4 years. The color of the drink is from golden to dark golden. Produced since 1936. Awarded 6 gold and 2 silver medals.

Massandra
Strong white vintage wine. Produced from grapes grown on the southern coast of Crimea. Fortress - 19.5%. Sugar - 3%. The wine is aged for 4 years. The color of the drink is from golden to dark amber. The taste is full harmonious. The aroma has a typical sherry tone. Produced since 1944. Awarded with 6 gold and silver medals.

Donskoy
Strong white vintage wine. Produced from grapes grown in the Rostov region, Fortress - 20%. Sugar - 3%. The wine is aged for 2 years. The color of the drink is from light straw to tea. Produced since 1956. Awarded with gold and silver medals.

Ashtarak
Strong white vintage wine. Produced from grapes grown in Armenia. Fortress - 20%. Sugar - 3%. The wine is aged for 3 years. The color of the liqueur is from straw to tea. Produced since 1930. Awarded 3 gold and 7 silver medals.

Byurakan
Table white vintage wine. Produced from grapes grown in Armenia. Fortress - 15-15%. Sugar - 3%. The wine is aged for 1.5 years. The color of the drink is dark straw. Produced since 1957. Awarded with 2 gold and silver medals.

Tamansky
Ordinary strong white wine. Produced from white grapes. Fortress - 20%. Sugar - 3%. The taste is peculiar, specific. The color of the drink is light golden. Awarded with 2 silver medals.

How sherry is used
Sherry is consumed much like other fortified wines. Being a versatile drink with a wide range of uses, it is primarily used as an excellent aperitif.
As a table drink, dry sherry goes well with almost any dish, even those with a pungent odor. Fino-type sherry is usually drunk young. If it is stored for a long time, then it loses its aroma and finesse. In Spain, sherry is widely used in cooking for the preparation of various dishes. Sweet sherry goes well with dessert. It is drunk from tulip-shaped glasses with a capacity of 50-100 grams, which are usually filled no more than one third. The temperature for using sherry is 9-11 degrees, i.e. it needs to be slightly cooled compared to the average room temperature 16 degrees. However, this does not apply to sweet sherry, which is drunk unchilled.

It should be remembered that since sherry is made from a mixture of wines with different aging, the year of harvest, place of production and vineyard are not indicated on the bottle labels.