About the new Noma, Nordic in Russia and gastrotrends. The taste of the dish is the main judging criterion

Art-cafe "Sleeve" is located in the very center of the capital of Russia. This institution is very original in its kind, as ingenious culinary masterpieces, as well as works of art - sculptures created by Alexander Rukavishnikov and his students. Sculpture connoisseurs very often gather here to taste well-prepared food, as well as admire the sculpting process.

Interior

When visiting the art cafe "Sleeve" each guest involuntarily gets the feeling that he got into the creative workshop of a famous sculptor who knows how to create brilliant works. By the way, all created sculptures are for sale - any of them can be purchased.

The interior of the institution allows you to gather in this institution a large noisy company, a friendly family, and it is also very convenient to spend romantic evenings with your soulmate here. Business meetings with business partners are very often held here.

For the convenience of each visitor, comfortable soft sofas are located near the tables. The modern interior of the institution is diluted with a lot of vintage details and antique elements. The ceilings here are decorated with antique crystal chandeliers, which fit very harmoniously into the overall picture.

One of the sights of the institution is a large red staircase that leads to the main two-tiered hall of the cafe-restaurant. Another famous element of the interior is a suspended boat, at the helm of which almost every visitor strives to take a picture.

The institution has a separate VIP-hall, which is designed for no more than 20 people. It is furnished with expensive antique furniture, its walls are decorated with paintings, and one of the walls has a custom-made fireplace. This hall is interesting name- "Pulcheria Ivanovna".

Kitchen

Art-cafe "Sleeve" (Moscow) - an institution that specializes in the preparation of unique author's dishes, which come up with chef Dmitry Tabakov. It also brings some variety to European cuisine, which, in a modified form, play with new colors.

As for cold appetizers, they offer roast beef with Orkney sauce, white bean hummus, pike caviar, various assorted dishes. It serves three types of the famous tartar dish: tuna, beef and salmon, as well as beef carpaccio with bread croutons. The menu of the art cafe "Sleeve" also contains a good assortment of salads: "Caesar" with arugula and shrimp, branded nicoise, "Rustic".

The café-restaurant also serves delicious hot snacks. This is "Fish & Chips", khinkali, khachapuri, Tiger chrimp in cheese fondue lamb ribs baked according to a special recipe. Here are excellent first courses: Asian tom yum soup, smoky sterlet ear, lentil soup with lamb, borscht with beef brisket. Good and nutritious hot meat dishes: grilled farm chicken, rustic turkey meatballs, beef ribs BBQ, beef stroganoff and fish: seafood paella, cod fillet with porcini mushroom risotto, baked sterlet, octopus and grilled squid. The restaurant is also ready to surprise you with excellently cooked steaks.

For sweets, chefs and confectioners of the Rukav art cafe in Moscow can offer poppy-seed cake with raspberry sauce, eclairs with fresh berries, sorbets, blancmange, chocolate truffle cake, as well as three types of ice cream (chocolate, pistachio and vanilla). The chef of the art cafe also prepares several of his signature desserts, which are very fond of the guests: cream cheese cream with chocolate-covered halva, Tabakov Romantik, flambé and strawberry tartar.

Bar

The bar menu of the institution is represented by a good assortment of different drinks.

From alcohol there are vermouth, digestifs, vodka, tequila, gin, cognac, real Scotch, Irish, American malt and blended malt whiskey, rum and various liquors. There are also several beer options.

From soft drinks bar art cafe "Sleeve" is ready to offer juice, coffee and tea. By the way, you can also order pancakes with meadow honey and jam for tea - such a dessert is designed for a large company. The cafe cooks very delicious lemonades Home, Sparkling, Ginger, Aranchata.

The bartenders of the establishment can surprise anyone with deliciously prepared cocktails. Of these, mojitos, caipirinhas, pina coladas, daiquiris and aperol spritz are very popular.

Additional Information

The institution is always ready to rent out its space for various events and banquets. Excellent weddings, mass banquets in honor of a birthday or anniversary are held here, and the VIP-hall is ideal for fun gatherings noisy companies. In the evenings, the restaurant plays live music performed by talented local musicians.

Within the walls of this institution there is a place for fans of the psychological game "Mafia" - on the second tier of the large hall there is a separate area where real tournaments are often held to determine persons belonging to the "mafia clan".

The art cafe is located in a very good location, where there is a transport interchange of several public transport routes. There is a guarded parking near the building of the institution, and inside there is a free Internet access point - everything is done for the convenience of guests in the Rukav art cafe in Moscow.

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A year ago, he became the first in the individual chef competition, in which his team won gold in the team competition. We asked Dmitry about what it takes to win.

– What, in your opinion, is the most difficult thing for chefs in Chef a la Russe?

– The championship consists of two stages: as part of the qualifying round, participants prepare the “National Lunch”, that is, dishes of their choice, during the grand final they compete in the “Black Box” nomination, when no one knows what products they will have to cook from. Oddly enough, the first stage turned out to be more difficult for us: in order to work out our two dishes, pike roll and tenderloin marbled beef, we have repeatedly gathered in my restaurant, tirelessly honed the quality and taste. For the second stage, all side dishes were invented and worked out in advance, the complexity was only in unknown products.

- Dmitry, to what extent did the victory in the championship depend on the quality of the products provided?

- Very much so. Taste is the main judging criterion, so the quality of the products must be perfect. Although, of course, both creativity and luck are important.

- Now you have another difficult test - participation in Russian qualifying round Bocuse d'Or . How are you preparing for this competition?

– I will work with the already familiar pike and Russian duck of the highest quality. Now we have to work out all the dishes in time: in 5 hours 35 minutes we need to cook nine servings of meat and fish dishes. Another difficulty is the selection of a tray: it must have a certain weight, an interesting design that will help convey the Russian spirit and flavor. Work out a decent design ready meal is not an easy task. All this takes a lot of time, which is not always enough: I oversee several restaurants.

- Dmitry, what professional goals do you set for yourself besides winning the Bocuse d'Or?

– In July, I plan to go on vacation to Sri Lanka on a culinary route. Already arranged with one of the members of the local chefs guild to visit restaurants where it will be possible to study Indian spices and work them out. I love to travel and explore local products. I start any voyage not from the sea, but from the local market. Sometimes it gives more impressions than anything else! So, in Kuala Lumpur I saw a master class on cutting chicken in a matter of seconds, a huge queue for live toads. It is a pity that the acquired knowledge can rarely be applied in Russia due to the unavailability of many products. And, of course, I will continue to pursue my dream of opening my own restaurant.

– What advice would you give to chefs who, like you, aspire to professional heights?

- Dmitry, thank you! And good luck at Bocuse d'Or Russia!

Reference

Dmitry Tabakov graduated from Moscow State Technical University named after K.G. Razumovsky with a degree in technologist. He worked in the restaurants "Filimonova and Yankel", "Sad" and others. Now he is the chef of the restaurants "Sleeve", "Polyana" and Whiskey Rooms. In 2015, the team led by Dmitry Tabakov won first place at the Chef a la Russe All-Russian Culinary Championship. In 2014, Dmitry Tabakov became the silver medalist of the Culinary World Cup in Luxembourg in individual competitions. In 2012 he won a bronze medal in the qualifying round of the international competition Bocuse d "Or.

A successful chef and restaurateur, he is responsible for the popular Moscow projects Zotman Pizza Pie, Haggis Bar & Kitchen, Madame Wong, Buro on the fifth floor of the Central Department Store. Dmitry became a chef at the age of 20. After working for five years in a large holding "Restaurant Syndicate" (Zolotoy, Beefbar Junior, "Olivetta"), he opened his small gastrobar "Wing or Leg", and this was the beginning of his career.

This year, the world-famous restaurant Noma (two-Michelin-starred and number one on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants several times) relaunched in a new location. Therefore, unfortunately, it was not included in the list of 2018. But I consider René Redzepi, the head of Noma, the best in the business. They are still number one on my list. Not so long ago I saw this legendary place live.

With a group of Russian chefs, we went on a small gastronomic journey to Copenhagen - the homeland of the Nordic, to get acquainted with the new restaurant and feel its atmosphere. We booked a table six months in advance and it was definitely worth the wait. This is a place worth visiting for sure. I really liked the restaurant itself and the way the processes are built in it: it is huge, but there are few seats. The kitchen is open, you can watch everything that happens. Engineering and design solutions shocked me in a good way and made me look at many things from a different angle. For example, I was very impressed with the design of the dishes: they are made of wax, we don't have anything like that yet. And in general, there are many moments that will shock an unprepared Russian person.

I was very impressed with the design of the dishes: they are made of wax, we don't have anything like that yet.

Nordic is a separate interesting story an entire culture. Over time, in many countries it has become a trend to follow seasonality, use wild plants, local products, including in Russia. But we must understand: what is happening with us is not a Nordic. That is, we took the gastronomic philosophy of the northern countries as a basis, but our nature is richer, there are much more interesting products that we have only recently opened our eyes to. Nordic simply showed how you can use in dishes what Russian chefs used to ignore and did not consider as ingredients at all.

It seems to me that it is a failure to open a restaurant specializing in the Nordic in our country now. Seriously, what is Nordic in its purest form? This is the north with its special flavor combinations, and we have different tastes with them: sour ones go better there, but here people perceive sweet and sour rather. The territorial features of the geographical location of countries are very much subject to taste preferences, and if we make exactly the same restaurant as in Denmark or Norway, it will not come in at all. They just don’t understand such food, the taste itself.

We must understand: what is happening here is not a Nordic.

In general, Nordic has already subsided as a global trend. The main thing that remains of him is attention to the product. Now the main gastrotrend on the market is minimal manipulations with products. They should be natural, the main point is simplicity and taste. In this regard, Scandinavia is very similar to Japan: both have everything concise and elegant. I think the next global trend is Japanese cuisine.

The number in the title is the year of construction of the building, designed by the architect A. S. Kaminsky, the author of the first building of the Tretyakov Gallery. There used to be a tenement house here. Later, the premises of the restaurant in Leontievsky Lane were occupied by warehouses and wine cellars, and then offices.

Now several rooms house a restaurant hall with 40 seats, a small bar, a cinema, a billiard room and a library. Oleg Alekhin, a graphic designer and teacher at the Academic School of Design, worked on the interior.

The restaurant was originally created for the soul and friends, but the owners are confident that it will be profitable: “We are pursuing the goal of spreading the culture of drinking whiskey, we are striving to create a community of people who will be pleased to meet and chat over a glass of whiskey. There are few places in Moscow where you can hide from the active life of the metropolis. To enjoy good whiskey, you need peace and tranquility - the atmosphere of privacy is created in Whiskey Rooms.

At the time of opening, 250 people received the club card - friends and acquaintances of the owners, as well as those who learned about the restaurant through " word of mouth". Mostly they are men over 30, but there are also many women who are interested in whiskey. Various events, tastings and meetings with famous masters of the whiskey industry are organized for them. In the future, trips to the distilleries are planned.

Before Whiskey Rooms, Chef Dmitry Tabakov worked at the Noah's Ark Restaurant and Pirogovo Yacht Club. At the new location, he was given the task of creating dishes that would go well with any whiskey. The menu includes both author's improvisations and traditional English recipes in a modern interpretation. In the preparation of some dishes, the drink itself is used. So, whiskey is one of the ingredients of desserts, beef roast beef sauce, as well as marinade for flan steak.

The expectations of a laconic and simple cuisine, which were especially strengthened by the demonstration of a film about the creation of a drink with shots of raging nature, squally wind and bad weather, did not come true. The chef's vision seemed somewhat ornate - he demonstrated both the techniques of molecular cuisine and the enthusiastic decoration of each dish with flowers, which caused visual associations with Asian cuisine.

However, each dish was distinguished by a beautiful presentation and did not leave anyone indifferent. The impression of a steak marinated in whiskey was spoiled by improper roasting (the meat was overdried), but I was pleasantly surprised pumpkin soup with tomato caviar in a glass. Yes, and plum crumble with cinnamon, almonds, oatmeal and whiskey is a great dessert for a cold spring day.