EntranceMy Odessa cuisine. Savely Libkin
Saveliy Libkin's cookbook My Odessa cuisine
". Thank you very much! This is a wonderful gift!
The other day the book reached me, now I will study it with interest. In the meantime, I propose to read her reviews from Marina magdacook
and Tanya tania_bondarets
.
Original taken from magdacook in My Odessa cuisine
For sophisticated gourmets and sophisticated housewives, the book may seem too simple, as it seemed to me at first. But this is a misleading impression, I will say right away. You know how many books I have, it’s quite difficult to surprise me with a recipe. Therefore, after leafing through the book, I put it aside... not for long...
Why did she seem simple? Forshmak, zucchini pancakes, cherry dumplings, stuffed cabbage... Well, what new or interesting things can I cook from it, I thought... Yes, it's hard to surprise me with a recipe, but with taste ready meal turned out to be very. Unexpectedly precisely because many dishes are simple and familiar from childhood.
Decided to cook lazy dumplings. They do not always work out for me, more precisely, so far none of the recipes has satisfied me. Either a lot of cottage cheese, or flour ... And for a long time I was looking for a recipe so that there would be a little cottage cheese and flour, while dense, but not tight, gently airy and always very, very tasty.
Cooked. Then I cooked potatoes with meat, again lazy dumplings, borscht ... That's it! Until I have cooked all the dishes from the book (with rare exceptions, well, I don’t like noodles with cottage cheese), I won’t calm down! By the way, the recipe homemade noodles there is also available.
Now I can say with confidence that your family will enjoy every dish prepared from this book.
This is a real cookbook, the one that all young housewives should have. Anyone who wants to learn how to cook really delicious and at home. So that your loved ones rush to dinner and love Sunday lunches. Dumplings and borsch like grandma's, mother's "Napoleon" and absolutely perfect lazy dumplings! So little is needed for comfort.
Number of pages: 256
Dimensions: 293x230x22 mm
Hard cover, coated paper.
Saveliy Libkin's book is published by the well-known Russian publishing house Eksmo. I think that every housewife who is passionate about cooking has a book from this publisher.
Photos were taken by food photographer and stylist from Kyiv Olga Babich.
The book is written easily, with mouth-watering photographs for each dish, with short stories and historical information about gastronomic Odessa, with practical advice and great mood.
The book contains 65 traditional Odessa recipes. It is divided into chapters - meat, fish, vegetables, porcini mushrooms, cottage cheese, flour - and into subsections in the chapters on the main ingredients. Although the section "fish" has been significantly reduced, focusing on the reader. Not everyone lives near the sea, yes.
This is the first book of recipes from a real Odessa citizen who loves his city and his business. “For me, cooking is not a hobby, not a newfangled tendency to collect “friends of interest” on blogs,” the author of the book says. Here are collected real recipes for delicious and sunny Odessa, according to which cooking is simple, fast, pleasant and, of course, it will turn out very tasty.
Lots of step by step photos.
Recipes worked out for years and generations, verified with 100% accuracy, which you will not find in every cookbook (I was convinced of this in my kitchen).
Here, I am sure, each recipe will be recorded by you as a favorite, if not a family one.
In general, I recommend the book, especially to young housewives. This is exactly the kind of food that makes you silently sweep everything off the plates, ask for more from the hostess and gather the whole family around the table.
In the preface to the book, Zhvanetsky writes: "You can deceive the heart, never the stomach." And you can't say better.
The author himself promises that his kitchen will be tasty and interesting: there is something to read, there is something to see. He fulfilled his promise, I can say with confidence! And from myself I can add: there is something to cook!)))
Video from Tanya
Odessa cuisine is a real mix of culinary traditions. It harmoniously combines oriental spices, Slavic products, Caucasian sharpness and French sophistication. In the list of ingredients you can often find tomatoes, sea salt, fresh greens, sauces and a touch of the southern sun.
These recipes are suitable for those who like to gather at a large table. noisy company relatives and close people. The simplicity of the execution of dishes will make a real chef out of an amateur. Saveliy Libkin's book is bright and warm and encourages you to cook and create in the kitchen!
Ingredients,
required for the prescription
cock - 3-4 kg
two domestic chickens - 1.2-1.5 kg
veal shank - 1.5-2 kg
large head of spring garlic - 3 pcs
medium carrot - 2 pcs
parsley root - 2 pcs
medium bulb - 2 pcs
a bunch of parsley - 2-3 pcs
bay leaf - 5-6 pieces
egg - 5 pcs
black pepper
Description of preparation
For one 3-4-kilogram rooster, we take two domestic chickens and about 1.5-2 kilograms of veal shank. We wash well and put everything together in a large saucepan: meat in a large piece, poultry - whole carcasses.
We wash and clean onions, carrots, parsley root. We don’t cut them - we will cook them whole.
Pour cold meat drinking water and put on fire. Festive aspic according to Odessa unwritten rules, it is cooked for 7 hours, and practically without boiling. Therefore, you need to calculate the time right away.
An hour and a half before the end of cooking, we put prepared vegetables and spices into the broth. It is very important to salt correctly: when cold, the taste of jelly will be 10-15% less salty than when it is hot.
After an hour, remove the vegetables from the broth. It is necessary to ensure that they are not digested, especially carrots, which are to be decorated with jelly.
In the meantime, we filter the broth through gauze (preferably several times) and briefly take the pan to the cold, in order to more conveniently remove the fat. We collect all the frozen fat with a spoon. It is very important not to leave a single drop on the surface of the broth.
Then let the broth stand for 10 minutes and carefully drain it from the sediment.
We crush the garlic and lay half in the strained and cooled broth, and half in the meat
Boil, peel and cut into rings homemade eggs with bright beautiful yolks. Cut boiled carrots into slices.
Let's start pouring cold. Fill the bottom of the tray or plate with a layer of broth by 6-7 mm and let it harden.
Place the larger pieces of chicken on the chilled broth. In each container, add a circle of boiled eggs, a slice of carrots and 1-2 parsley leaves. Lay the rest of the meat on top.
Then we fill it all with repeatedly strained broth and take it out to the cold.
Ingredients,
required for the prescription
beef entrecote - 1 kg
blue-eye potatoes - 1 kg
refined sunflower oil- 200 ml
5-6 onions - 600 g
carrots - 2 pcs
pitted prunes - 300 g
white raisins - 100 g
beef broth - 1.3 l
allspice - 5-7 pcs
bay leaf - 1 pc.
ground black pepper
Description of preparation
We buy prunes and white raisins at the market. Please note that they must
be matte: dried fruit can shine only if it has been additionally processed with something. The aroma of a fire emanating from prunes suggests that, most likely, it was smoked with the help of " liquid smoke". Therefore, we always choose black, matte, “without haze”, preferably dry and sweet, but with a slight sourness. It is better to take with bones and take them out at home.
Pitted prunes and white raisins are soaked in cold water for 1 hour.
We clean a piece of beef entrecote from all films and cut into cubes of about 50 grams each.
Wash, clean and cut large potato tubers of the "Sineglazka" variety into cubes of the same size as the meat.
Wash onions and carrots, clean and cut: onions - into large slices, and carrots - into cubes.
Brown the meat in a cast iron pan vegetable oil within 20 minutes. Add onion and fry for another 15 minutes.
Pour in 200-250 ml of broth and reduce the heat. Simmer for 75 minutes, stirring constantly and occasionally adding a little broth.
We dry the pieces of fish with a napkin, salt, pepper and leave to rest for 30 minutes.
Before frying, you can sprinkle the flounder with lemon juice.
It remains only to bread the fish in flour (it is better to add 15% corn to wheat) and
fry on both sides in a pan, sparing no vegetable oil.
Be sure to fry over high heat without a lid and until golden brown.
Ukrainian hospitableness, Jewish resourcefulness, oriental spice, Russian thoroughness, French layering and Caucasian sharpness are combined in Odessa cuisine like in a big cauldron. Having absorbed the best, Odessa cuisine flavored the dishes with a slice of the southern sun, generous sea salt and the aroma of ripe tomatoes. In the performance of Saveliy Libkin, Odessa cuisine sounds, charges with mood and desire to cook exactly that salad, the sauce of which you then savor with a piece of Borodino, exactly that blue caviar, a kilogram of which is just “to try”. Bright, unforgettable, leaving the warmest memories, gathering everyone at a large table, Odessa cuisine does not leave anyone indifferent.
Preface to the book:
The hardest thing in life is getting started. The subject is irrelevant in this case. Starting a book was as difficult for me as it was for you to cook. The beginning is always fraught with doubts: is it worth it? will it work right?
Everyone knows: "A journey of a thousand miles begins with the first step." Let's go on a "gastronomic journey" through my Odessa together. Let's take the first step: I - as a writer, you - as connoisseurs of Odessa cuisine. So, let's go to "my Odessa kitchen"...
Today, "my Odessa cuisine" is located on French Boulevard - in one of the most beautiful districts of Odessa. Sometime in 1902, the Little Fountain Road received the sonorous name French Boulevard in honor of the visit of Tsar Nicholas II to France. Our city has always been at the center of cultural and political events, despite the distance from the capitals. Here, at the dacha of the consul of the French Republic and the merchant Jean Reno, A. S. Pushkin stayed, on the street nearby lived his last years before emigration I. A. Bunin. But this is all poetic, literary Odessa. My story began in maternity hospital No. 1 exactly 70 years after its foundation, by the way, it was built on the occasion of the 25th anniversary of the marriage of Emperor Alexander III.
After the “historical” (in every sense) maternity hospital No. 1, I moved to Vorovskogo Street (formerly Malaya Arnautskaya Street and now again Malaya Arnautskaya Street). Yes, you remember correctly: “All smuggling is done in Odessa, on Malaya Arnautskaya Street.” They say that it was here that the prototype of Ostap Bender lived - a certain Ostap Shor. But I didn’t find him, but I know well how life works if you live two blocks from the famous Privoz, next to the station and 10 minutes from the sea.
I learned to cook from my grandmother Rosa. Without exaggerating, I’ll say: Rozalia Moiseevna cooked every day for our entire large family after my grandfather brought food from Privoz, which in Odessa had to be not only chosen, but also bargained for. I am very curious and naturally attentive to details, so I can talk about food and how it is prepared in nuances without trying it further. In my youth, I looked at food more and more, and did not eat it. Restaurants sold alcohol, dancing, and instant dating. In the 70s, to get into a restaurant in Odessa, you had to pay.
At the same time, the store shelves were empty (the country began to “generously drink” us exclusively with birch sap), prices on Privoz rushed higher and higher (apparently, to the upcoming “Olympic heights”). To survive in the heyday of the "socialist paradise", it was necessary to get closer to the products and learn how to cook.
Immediately after serving in the Soviet army, I went to study as a cook, then I started working. My culinary practice started with the "banquet business". Eminent and wealthy Odessans, true epicureans, ordered native Odessa dishes - a mixture of Greek-Armenian food from Soviet products, mixed with Jewish traditions.
I have been eating food all my adult life: I can say that for 20 years the menu of my restaurants has been appreciated not only by Odessans, but also by tourists from all over the world who so willingly come to Odessa during the season.
“My Odessa Cuisine” is the first book of recipes from a real Odessa citizen who loves his city and his business. For me, cooking is not a fad, not a newfangled trend of gathering “friends of interest” on blogs. In this book, everything is real: recipes that cook deliciously, the words of Odessa friends, with whom it is joyful to sit at the table, and the author, who is seriously in love with his Odessa history and cuisine.
Before the first page of the book and the first recipe, I will again turn to the main Odessa writers and their hero, the son of a Turkish citizen, a true Odessa citizen Ostap Bender: "Dinner is the first, and speeches are the second." Enjoy your meal!
Odessa is probably the only Ukrainian city where local cuisine is not an abstract concept from a tourist guide, but a completely edible phenomenon. At the same time, few people know which dishes should be considered native to Odessa and what local gastronomic traditions generally represent. Some consider Odessa cuisine to be Jewish, others - a kind of Ukrainian. Both opinions are correct, given the multinationality of the port city. The Village talked about the essence of Odessa cuisine with restaurateur Savely Libkin, chose 10 typical dishes and found out where you can try them.
Savely Libkin
Chef, owner of the restaurants Kompot, Dacha, Tavernetta,
"Steakhouse. Meat and wine”, “Pan-pizza”. Born and aliveem in Odessa
If we talk about the current national composition of Odessa, then the word "Odessite" is more of a collective image than a nationality. But this collective image includes, of course, some national components. There are many Bulgarians, Armenians, Greeks, while there are still many Jews, there are Ukrainians, there are Russians. If you take it in terms of importance, then Odessa cuisine is Greek-Ukrainian-Jewish cuisine with nuances from Armenia, Georgia, Bulgaria. A serious role is played by the combination of these nationalities with the climate and the presence of the sea. Taking into account the fact that the trade relations that developed in Odessa thanks to the port are transferred to the whole of Ukraine, in fact, during the season we can get porcini mushrooms from Transcarpathia, and meat from the Crimea, and fish not only from the Black Sea. It is clear that I do not mean the cuisine from the supermarket (food in jars, bottles, boxes), which makes Moscow, Paris, and New York the same.
For me, Odessa is the taste of a salad of tomatoes "Bull's Heart" - yellow and red, peeled and seeds, which were cut into slices about a finger thick, and cheese was put on top.
Personally, I consider the taste of such a sandwich to be very Odessan: stale state White bread, soft butter (not the one from the refrigerator, but which is easily smeared) and last year's Hungarian jam (plum variety), which must be spread with a thick layer. For me, this taste is very Odessa. Just as Odessa for me is the taste of black bread, Borodino (also not very fresh) with olive oil and salted tulka without bones. Also, the Odessa taste for me is the taste of a salad of tomatoes "Bull's Heart" - yellow and red, peeled and seeds, which were cut into slices about a finger thick, and cheese was put on top. It turns out such a salad like what they eat in Italy (mozzarella with tomatoes).
I do not envy tourists, they should not choose a cuisine, but a place. Because the name on the menu does not guarantee the absence of a swindler in the institution, which may be a cook or a manager who hired this cook. Catering business- this is a business in which there is an insane amount of scammers, and I see this well, because I myself love to eat and methodically go to all establishments. I would recommend choosing, first of all, a place where there will be less chances that something wrong will be slipped to you. Of the dishes, I recommend flounder in season, it is difficult to spoil it - they fried it and that's it. If you order more eggplant caviar, then there will already be some impression of the kitchen. Initially, it is important to find non-swindlers, and then you can eat everything that they give you: it will be worthy.
Recipes from Odessa chefs
Caviar from blue
Where to try: restaurant "Dacha" | Price: 68 UAH | Chef: Vasily Yakim
In Odessa, eggplants are usually called blue. These are the bluest and bell pepper baked in the oven until fully cooked, so that they become soft (it is important not to overdry the pepper: it needs less time). Then the vegetables are cooled, peeled and finely chopped with a knife along with a blanched tomato. Add vegetable oil, crushed garlic, grated raw onion, lemon juice, sugar and salt. Mix well, you can serve.
Black Sea flounder
Where to try:restaurant "Dacha" |Price: 108 UAH per 100 g | Chef: Vasily Yakim
The flounder just bought at Privoz must be cleaned: cut off the fins and head with scissors, cut into portioned pieces. Then - salt, pepper and leave to lie down for about 30 minutes. The fish is breaded in flour and fried in a pan with vegetable oil over high heat under a closed lid. Turn over to the other side, fry, without covering with a lid, until golden brown.
Forshmak
Where to try: restaurant «Kompot» | Price: 39 UAH | Chef: Ivan Ivanchenko
Herring fillet is scrolled twice through a meat grinder. Peel the apples from the peel and core and, together with the peeled onions, twist them in a meat grinder along with the herring. Butter, lemon juice, salt, pepper, walnuts, grated on a fine grater, boiled eggs - everything is mixed. Forshmak is placed on a plate, poured with olive oil and eaten with black bread toasts.
beef stroganoff
Where to try:Restaurant "Kompot" | Price: 39 UAH | Chef: Ivan Ivanchenko
The beef is cleaned of films, cut across the fibers 1 cm thick and lightly beaten. Sliced entrecote and champignons are cut into slices 2–3 mm thick, and onions are cut into strips 2 mm thick. In vegetable oil, fry beef, onions and champignons for 2 minutes until golden brown, salt, pepper, pour cream and stew for 5-6 minutes (as an option, meat can be breaded in flour mixed with salt and pepper, and fried separately from onions and mushrooms). Then add spinach, chopped large pieces, and mix well. The dish is served with mashed potatoes.
Tsimes from beans with crispy toasts
Where to try: cafe "Franzol" | Price: 39 UAH | Chef: Natalia Rybalko
Beans must be washed and soaked in water for an hour, then boiled. Onion pre-cut into cubes and fry in vegetable oil. Mix boiled beans in a pan with onions and tomato paste and fry. Add salt and pepper. Mix in a blender until a homogeneous mass is obtained.
Peel the onion, cut into rings, salt, roll in starch and fry in hot oil until golden brown. Put the tsimes on a dish, and put the onion on top.
Tulka meatballs
Where to try:cafe "Franzol" |Price: 65 UAH | Chef:Natalia Rybalko
Clean the sprat from ridges and intestines, rinse under water, dry, salt and pepper. Divide into four parts and shape into balls. Add mayonnaise and salt to the egg. Dip the meatballs in flour and fry in hot oil on both sides, cover with a lid and bring to readiness.
Add diced onion, cucumbers, finely chopped dill and capers to mayonnaise. To mix everything. The sauce is ready.
Spinner with an apple
Where to try:cafe "Franzol" |Price: 36 UAH | Chef:Natalia Rybalko
The vertuta is made from a stretched dough. Knead the dough, divide it into two parts and form balls. Cover the dough with a bowl and let rest for 1 hour. Peel and cut apples into cubes, mix them with sugar, raisins and cinnamon.
Spread the tablecloth on the table and sprinkle with flour. Roll out the dough lightly and stretch with your hands - it should be thin. When the dough is ready, you need to grease it with melted butter, put apples on one side and roll up. Roll up the edges of the roll. Lay on a baking sheet parchment paper and lay out the vertuta. Bake for 30-40 minutes at 170 degrees. 10 minutes before the end of cooking, brush with egg and sprinkle with sugar. Cut the resulting roll into portions.
fish cakes
Where to try: restaurant "Bernardazzi" | Price: 70 UAH | Chef: Alexey Shvets
Scroll the prepared fish fillet in a meat grinder through a fine grate, add salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly and form three round-shaped meatballs from the fish mass, put in the freezer to harden. Fry in vegetable oil and bring to readiness in the oven. Eggplant cut into rings 0.5 cm thick, fry in vegetable oil.
Peeled vegetables cut into small cubes, fry in a saucepan with a thick bottom and add cream. Let it boil and reduce the cream twice.
Bulls in Odessa
Where to try: restaurant "Klarabara" | Price: 80 UAH | Chef: Menyailov Alexey
Thoroughly mix flour with starch. Bread the steers in this mixture. Fry in plenty of vegetable oil until golden brown. Serve with tomato wedges, drizzled garlic sauce and sprinkled with herbs.
Meze in Odessa
Where to try: restaurant "Klarabara" | Price: 85 UAH | Chef: Menyailov Alexey
|
|
Ingredients
70 g salted sprats
|
Forshmak ingredients
|
Pass the peeled herring, pitted and peeled apples and a hard-boiled egg through a meat grinder or scroll in a blender. Season the resulting mixture with vinegar, salt, sugar and oil. Arrange on a platter alongside the rest of the appetizers.
Saveliy Libkin is a well-known Odessa restaurateur and a person passionate about cooking, the author of 2 cookbooks. His cooking articles are published by the world famous Forbes magazine.
And the ODESSA cuisine itself, as it were, stands apart and is a symbiosis of Ukrainian, Jewish cuisine with elements of Moldavian, Russian cuisine of the Soviet period (definition of moderators).
February 13, 2013
Borscht as a dish I ceased to perceive from the age of 7. It was then that in the 74th school they gave it for lunch almost every other day. The public school, the public canteen and the watery-brown water with cabbage were remembered for a long time.
In short, I didn’t eat borscht at school. At home too ... Just because the name coincided, but I was afraid to try. Of course, I assumed that everything was completely different at home, but school fears made themselves felt.
The first time I became interested in this dish was when I saw exactly how Reiza's grandmother cooks it. I don't remember exactly if I was 10 or 11 at the time, but given that the discussion of what to cook always took place in front of me, I remember some of the repetitive nuances of conversations about food.
Every evening, my grandmother told my grandfather that my uncle did not eat anything, and therefore was very thin. Then the question of what exactly to give the uncle with him to work was discussed. Then what to cook for tomorrow and so on. I slept in the same room with them, so I was aware.
The only dish that uncle perceived was the same borscht. That's why they often cooked borscht.
Borscht is a universally recognized gastronomic hit in Russia and Ukraine. When friends or relatives from abroad come to me, I certainly cook red borsch and consider this dish not just a tradition, but one of the most delicious soups in the world.
Let's start with the tomato puree.
Blanch ripe, but not too soft red cream tomatoes, remove the skin. Cut into slices, remove the remnants of the stem.
My carrots, peel, rub on a medium grater. Cut the onion into rings, celery stalks and garlic into slices.
We spread the vegetables in a cast-iron cauldron, pour olive oil and put on medium heat. Add salt, sugar and some freshly ground pepper.
Cook the puree under the lid for one hour, stirring occasionally with a wooden spatula.
Cool and puree with a puree maker. (I have seen a passapomodoro in Italy - a device for making puree from tomatoes: a cross between an electric meat grinder and a juicer. But in Odessa they are not used yet).
We lay out the finished puree in clean jars and, if desired, either put it in the refrigerator, or “twist it” and hide it until winter.
Let's move on to borscht. Brisket - sawn ribs with meat, pour cold drinking water and cook for two hours with little or no boiling, observing all the nuances of cooking the broth (see the Bouillon cubes recipe).
We bring the broth to taste and take out all the vegetables and herbs from it. Meat - leave. It is important that it is cooked simultaneously with borscht.
We clean the early beets and chop them into strips. We do not use a grater.
Sprinkle the beets with vinegar and simmer over medium heat in vegetable oil. At the last stage, add the pulp of red peeled tomatoes without seeds or homemade puree from them to the beets. Simmer for another 10 minutes until thick and add a spoonful of sugar.
We chop carrots, parsley root, onions into strips and sauté them in vegetable oil for 10 minutes.
Sorokodnevka potatoes are washed, peeled, cut into large cubes. Even if we cook borscht from early vegetables, we use last year's: young potatoes in borscht are not perceived.
Finely chop early cabbage. We cut the stems of young beets into pieces of 5-6 millimeters.
In the broth, without removing the meat, lay the potatoes and cook for 15 minutes. Then simultaneously introduce all the other stews and raw vegetables. Cook without boiling for another 10 minutes.
Borscht, without removing the lid, leave to rest for two hours.
We take out the bones, leaving the boiled meat in the borscht.
Crush the garlic clove with a knife and chop into crumbs. Chop the parsley and chop very finely. Put salt, garlic, parsley into homemade sour cream and mix.
We tear off a piece of meat reddened from beets with our hands and put it on a plate. Add two ladles of borscht and put a tablespoon of sour cream with herbs on top.
For the winter version, I pre-boil the beets for half an hour in water with vinegar. In addition, part of the potatoes can be replaced with pre-cooked large beans. At my house it was called "shovel". Otherwise, the technology for preparing winter borscht is the same as for spring borscht. But the taste is different.
I don’t put lard, black and allspice in borscht - it distracts. During the cooking process, you can add some fresh porcini mushrooms and then do not put garlic in sour cream.
It is better to cook borscht at the rate of 2 days. The next after cooking, it acquires a characteristic density and richness of taste.
See the recipe in the book:
Savely Libkin. "My Odessa cuisine". Exmo 2013
