Raw fish dishes (sugudai, sashimi, stroganina): recipes and serving rules. Carpaccio and tartare

Crudo in Spanish and Italian means raw, uncooked. Indeed, only shrimp and shellfish caught from the Gulf of Naples do not require heat treatment - except perhaps lemon juice. It's like with oysters - the first time you look at the slimy substance you swallow it with care, but then the taste of the cool sea with mineral sparks is impossible to forget. Vongole clams are silky, creamy and slightly salty, scallops are oily and almost sweet, French tellines generally resemble monpasier with a barely audible taste of algae. Crudo can also be not only a designation of a product property, but at the same time - a fish dish, say, sea bass or monkfish. Long strips are marinated in lime or lemon juice with onions and coarse salt and pepper. This, in general, is the basis of the basics - it's just that in each country such a dish is called differently.

Sashimi

True connoisseurs raw fish- the Japanese. Sashimi - slices of raw fish - should go at the beginning of the meal, when the receptors are most receptive to the subtlest shades of taste: namely, they distinguish raw fish from each other. Sashimi also speaks of the skill of the cook. soft fish like tuna should be cut into slices a centimeter thick. Dense fish is made into strips a millimeter thick - this method is called ito zakuri. Kaku zakuri - paper-thin sashimi, for example, this is made from puffer fish. A slice can be dipped in soy sauce, but not kept there for a long time - to feel, for example, that akami, a strip of meat from the belly of a tuna, has a pleasant, palpable fat content, yellowtail is almost bland and tight, and a perch has a subtle, subtle sea saltiness. You can chew on ginger between fish species to "reboot" the taste perception.

ceviche

The ideal way to eat fresh fish and seafood was invented by sailors in Peru out of necessity: they cut the catch in the sea, cut it into pieces and marinated for fifteen minutes in lime juice. A close relative of crudo, Russian sugud and a distant one - smaller than chopped tartare, ceviche suggests a greater variety and boldness of recipes, whether it be the addition of onions, chili peppers, celery, tomato juice or olive oil. Lime juice must be squeezed out with your hands so as not to release bitterness from the middle, the volume of juice and fish should be approximately equal. Accordingly, such a dish has less natural fishy taste, and therefore it is easier for an eater biased towards raw fish to eat it.

Suguday

A raw fish dish is an analogue of ceviche from the north of Russia: the fillet of freshly caught local whitefish, nelma or whitefish is cut across the carcass and marinated in vegetable oil and vinegar with onion and pepper for 10-15 minutes. It happens that they add a grated apple or increase the time to an hour. One of the most delicious northern fish, muksun, is best suited for sugudai, it has almost transparent white meat with a subtle sourness.

Stroganina

Frozen fish or meat in the north of Russia was planed into thin slices and eaten when Europe had not yet heard of carpaccio. Only local northern fish are suitable: broad whitefish, omul, nelma or muksun, caught alive and spent more than ten hours in frost at 30 ° C. They take the fish and plan it like such a big pencil. Planed at a time in small portions, so as not to melt, and first dipped in "Makalovo": salt and pepper in proportions of 1: 1. It tastes pretty great - at first the slice just burns with frost and pepper, and then the delicate taste of the fish itself is revealed. In Yakutsk, every year even the Stroganina festival is held, where residents compete in the speed and quality of planing. There are a lot of rules: you can’t take dead fish (which died in the nets), you need to store it glazed in ice so that it doesn’t dry out, you can’t defrost - thawed and re-frozen fish, although edible, is icy and unpleasant in taste. Over the centuries in the Arctic, of course, they have tried everything.

carpaccio

The name "carpaccio" refers to the method of slicing: a dish of thin layers of beef was invented by the inventor of the Bellini cocktail, Giuseppe Cipriani - it seems that he could not eat food after heat treatment for health reasons. Giuseppe named his find in honor of the Renaissance painter Vittore Carpaccio, whose canvases were dominated by red and white. Distinctive features of fish carpaccio are very thin layers of the product, preliminary freezing and the presence of dressing: before serving, tuna or mullet is sprinkled, for example, with a mixture of olive oil and lemon juice and sprinkled with freshly ground black pepper and salt.

If you have chosen the right fish, better than tartare and carpaccio can't think of anything. Here are some ideas for raw fish dishes from chefs.

A photo: TerraMare Restaurant

Recipe by Andrey Makaev, TerraMare restaurant chef

• 50 g skinless salmon fillet
• 20 g avocado pulp
• 5 g capers
• Salt and pepper
• 5 ml olive oil
• 10 g lemon

sea ​​bass tartare

• 50 g sea bass fillet
• 10 g pickled onions
• 10 ml olive oil
• Slice of lemon
• Salt and pepper

Tuna tartare

• 50 g tuna fillet
• 5 g red onion
• 20 g fresh cucumber without skin
• 10 ml sesame oil
• 5 ml olive oil
• Slice of lemon
• Salt and pepper

Step 1. Cut salmon and avocado fillets into small cubes and mix.

Step 2. Add chopped capers. Drizzle with a mixture of olive oil and lemon, add salt and pepper, mix.

Step 3. Cut the sea bass fillet into small cubes and mix with finely chopped canned onions.

Step 4. Season with salt, pepper and lemon oil. When serving, you can sprinkle sesame seeds on top.

Step 5. Cut the tuna fillet into small cubes, mix with finely chopped red onion and cucumber.

Step 7. Put all three tartars on a plate through the rings, serve with toast, capers and olives. Can be topped with balsamic sauce.

Photo: Zotman Pizza Pie — chain of pizzerias

Recipe by Dmitry Zotov, chef at Zotman Pizza Pie

• 150 g salmon fillet
• 20 g fresh radish
• 5 ml Japanese lemon juice (yuzu)
• 10 ml ponzu sauce
• Flower salt - to taste
• Tagorashi pepper - to taste

Step 1. Remove all bones from the salmon fillet. Cut the fish into small cubes.

Step 2. Transfer the fish to a bowl, add the yuzu juice and ponzu sauce, as well as flower salt to taste, mix. Leave for 5 minutes.

Step 3. Put the tartare on a plate. Cut the radish into thin slices or strips, put on tartare. Sprinkle with tagorashi pepper. Serve.

Tuna tartare with mango salsa

Recipe by Evgeny Trofimov, chef of the Geroi gastrobar

4 servings

• 250 g tuna fillet
• 20 ml sesame oil
• 25 ml soy sauce
• 5 ml sriracha sauce
• 5 g sesame

For salsa:

• 170 g mango
• 30 g red onion
• 70 g tomatoes
• 20 g fresh parsley
• 20 ml orange juice

Avocado mousse:

• 225 g avocado
• 150 g tomatoes
• 75 g white onion
• 20 g garlic
• 30 g parsley
• 5 ml lime juice
• 30 ml olive oil

For filing:

• 50 g capers
• 4 slices of bread
• lettuce corn

Step 1. Tuna fillet must be cut into cubes 0.8 × 0.8 cm, pour sauces and add sesame seeds. Then mix and salt to taste.

Step 2. Cut all salsa ingredients into small cubes, season with sauce and mix.

Step 3. Punch all the ingredients for the mousse through a blender, and rub the resulting mass through a sieve.

Step 4. In the center of the plate, lay out the tartare in the shape of a circle, on the outside - salsa and avocado mousse. Decorate with corn salad and capers, serve with bread toasts.

Photo: Buono Restaurant

Recipe by Christian Lorenzini, Chef at BUONO Restaurant

• 120 g octopus
• 20 g arugula
• 5 g shallots
• 5 g parmesan
• 2 g frisee lettuce
• 8 ml olive oil
• 10 ml balsamic vinegar
• 2 g sea ​​salt
• Pepper
• 30 g tomatoes
• 30 g avocado
• citronette sauce (olive oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper) - 20 ml
• onion sibulet
• balsamic cream - to taste

Step 1. Rinse the carcass of the octopus well, boil, peel and cut into slices.

Step 2. Coarsely chop the tomatoes and avocado and season with balsamic cream.

Step 3. Put the octopus on a pillow of arugula, sliced ​​parmesan, shallots and celery.

Step 4. Season with citronette sauce (to prepare, mix 1 part olive oil and 1/2 lemon juice, salt and pepper).

Step 5. Serve with tomato and avocado salad.

High quality raw fish dishes have been favorites of gourmets in many countries of the world for centuries. Not in vain in traditional cuisines in different parts of the world you can find interpretations of this theme - sashimi and sushi in Japan, ceviche - in Latin America, sugudai and stroganina - in Russia and Northern Europe. Today our chefs have prepared for you 5 cool recipes with raw fish, which you can easily repeat at home.

rule 1: choose quality fish

Rule 2: use marinade

Before eating raw fish, it must be heldin the appropriate marinade. It could be like pre-marination, and just the sauce with which the fish is seasoned before serving. You don't have to wait long - 5-10 minutes is enough. The marinade should contain an acidic component - lemon juice, fresh lime or vinegar (rice, apple, wine). At the expense of acetic and citric acid these ingredients denature the proteins in the fish. This greatly simplifies the process of digestion of the product.

Rule 3: Add an Antimicrobial Ingredient to Your Meal

A fairly common practice in all traditional cuisines is to add to a dish with raw fishantimicrobial ingredient. It could behot chili peppers, onions, garlic or wasabi paste. Do not neglect this product, even if you do not like it too much. In a dish with raw fish, it plays a completely non-decorative role.

There are just no gourmet recipes cooking fish dishes, tastier than caviar and the meat of fresh raw fish, for me personally, there is nothing. This opinion is of course debatable, but it is undeniably different - fresh raw fish is very valuable. food product, in which many are not destroyed by boiling and frying useful material. Of course, and the fact that raw fish dishes should be prepared only from the highest quality product.

Even in the the best fish, in which, by definition, there is no infection, danger may lurk. With improper freezing and storage, helminths can appear on the fish. Therefore, eating raw fish is always associated with risk, especially if this fish is not caught by you personally. Many raw fish dishes are offered to us in various restaurants, and before you dare to try one of them, check the reputation of this institution.

In a word, there is something to fear. When cooking raw fish The best way disinfect it at least a little - this is a good rinse under running cold water. Let the water drain and remove excess moisture from the fish with paper towels. And of course, after cutting raw fish, wash knives, cutting boards and other utensils with special equipment.

Salted pike

The most tasty pike The one I ate was freshly salted pike. Surely, many anglers have enjoyed the taste of cold-smoked pike and know how tasty this fish is cooked in this way. Freshly salted pike is even tastier, but there is one problem - opisthorchiasis.

I don’t know how things were with opisthorchiasis 30 years ago, but my grandfather caught pike in April-May and salted them in the cellar in enamel saucepan. The fish was the freshest, because the weather in April and early May is quite cool here in Siberia. The river was only two hundred meters from the house, which means that the pike was delivered to the table in the most perfect condition. The pike was immediately gutted, salted and lowered into the cellar for several days.

I ate such a salty pike all my childhood and didn’t get sick with opisthorchiasis. And now I’m thinking about whether I should salt the pike caught in winter or early spring, when there is still no flowering vegetation in the water and it is possible that the fish is clean. Although there are very large doubts that this somehow affects infection with opisthorchiasis. This is the most risky dish of the recipes I have proposed, so decide for yourself whether to salt or not to salt.

Fresh sterlet

Since we have licensed sterlet fishing, you can either catch it yourself or buy it in a store, and such a sterlet recipe has a place to be. Although there is no actual recipe. The main thing is to wash the sterlet well from sand and mucus. It remains only to gut it, cut it like a sausage into wide pieces and, after salting and peppering, especially without waiting for salting, eat it right there. This is the beauty of sterlet, that it can be eaten, literally like sausage.

Sterlet in culinary terms is a solid plus, except for one nuance - sturgeon fish more than other fish are prone to botulism and eating dead fish is not recommended. Although the sterlet fish is very tenacious (almost like crucian carp), but if the sterlet fell asleep not of its own accord, but died through a wound, the risk of disease is high. For this reason, poachers check the traps at least once a day, and the fish that died on the hook are thrown away, even if they do not have obvious signs of decomposition.

The next dish can be prepared from the most different fish, but I would recommend to saddle it from carp. Firstly, carp is a fairly clean fish, and secondly, you can buy live carp and this will make the dish even tastier. This dish is called Aran.

To prepare aran, you need to cut the carp into fillets (separate the meat from the spinal bones). Next, the fillet is abundantly sprinkled with salt and placed in a colander so that, under the influence of salt, the meat begins to give off excess moisture.

After 20-30 minutes, water the fillet very lightly cold water. Thus, we wash off excess salt and at the same time “refresh” the fish. When the water stops dripping from the fillet, put the meat on a plate on top of a layer of chopped radishes, carrots and other vegetables. But that's not all. It is supposed to eat the fish as follows: dipping it in soy sauce mixed with grated ginger.

Salmon dishes

Needless to say, but it is salmon, trout, chum salmon, pink salmon and other fish of the salmon family that most often end up on our table, and as a rule, in frozen form. But the situation is changing from year to year for the better, and many Siberian fish farms now breed trout and you can buy it live.

Raw fish sandwich

Ingredients: fish fillet 200 gr., green onion, tomato, grated hard cheese (mozzarella type), basil.

Salt and pepper the fillet to taste and place on a plate. Sprinkle the fillet olive oil, squeeze the lemon juice, sprinkle on top with a pinch of sugar and a handful of chopped green onions. Let the fillet brew and soak in flavors for another 10-15 minutes. It is best to serve fish fillet on croutons grated with garlic. Sprinkle grated cheese on top of the fillet and decorate with a thin slice of tomato.

minced fish

Ingredients: 300 gr. fish fillet, 2 onions, 2 tbsp. l. refined vegetable oil, 1-2 tsp. lemon juice, salt, black ground pepper, greens.

Chilled (and preferably slightly frozen) fillet is cut into slices and then finely chopped. Peel the onion and also cut into small cubes. It remains to mix the onion and fish, add vegetable oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Serve to the table, decorating with greens on top. You can eat with a spoon or spread minced meat on bread. If you didn’t have time to eat all the minced meat, then put it in the refrigerator, the colder the minced meat, the tastier.

ceviche

Ingredients: 500 gr. fish fillet, 2 tablespoons peanut butter, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, juice of a whole lemon (or lime), 2 tablespoons chopped fresh green onions, 2 finely chopped garlic cloves, 1 small chili pepper, small carrot, fresh cucumber, Bell pepper and bow.

From the raw fish living in the Peruvian lake Titicaca, the Indians prepare ceviche or chervice. In our case, this recipe was adapted for salmon fish, but it didn’t get worse from this.

Mix all ingredients (except fish), salt and pepper, add oil and finely chopped garlic. We get a delicious marinade.

The fish, cut into thin strips, is placed in the resulting marinade so that it completely covers the fish. After a quarter of an hour, drain the marinade and serve the fillet on lettuce leaves with chopped sweet peppers, cucumber, sweet varieties of onions and tomatoes.

Japanese raw fish dishes

Most of all, of course, the Japanese are tempted to eat raw fish. Historically, unlike the Mongols, who ate only meat, the Japanese eat mainly fish, since livestock is difficult to raise on their island. The opinion and tastes of the fish nation itself should be trusted, and the fact that they prefer to eat raw fish suggests that it is raw fish that serves as the crown of all fish dishes.

We will not describe sushi once again - this dish has already set its teeth on edge, it is being prepared by hundreds different ways and is served in almost any Russian restaurant. There is a dish that is simpler and more acceptable for a Russian person - sashimi.

ceviche

Ingredients: 300 gr. dorado fillet, 2 tablespoons each of peanut and sesame oil, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, juice of a whole lemon (or lime), 2 tablespoons chopped fresh green onions, 2 finely chopped garlic cloves, 1 carrot, 1 cucumber, 1 bell pepper, 5-6 radish.

I must say that sashimi is very similar in ingredients to the sevcha described above, with some important nuances. Sashimi - can be prepared from any raw fish, but in this case we will give as an example gilthead fish, from raw fillet which cooks many dishes. Dorado fish not expensive and affordable.

We put the gilthead fillet in the freezer and wait until it freezes and becomes so hard that it can be evenly cut into thin slices across the fibers. The Japanese are very meticulous in slicing and slicing fish so beautifully that it looks like a whole art.

Finely chop all vegetables. We lay out the fish on a large plate and add a little salt, and sprinkle with chopped vegetables on top. Sprinkle vegetables on top with onion and garlic. Pepper and sprinkle with lemon juice.

We heat sesame oil (it is also sesame) and peanut butter in a pan along with soy sauce. Bring to a boil and pour our dish on top of this gravy.

There are also quite a few varieties of sashimi, but I like this recipe the most precisely because of the combination cold fish and hot sauce. Of course, you need to eat this dish only fresh in order to fully enjoy the meal.

It's nice for you to freeze the worm!

Konstantin Fadeev